Friday 24 September 2021

West Side Story, Part 3

Once again, we were greeted by the sun when we woke up on Tuesday the 7th of September.

After our customary fruit and yogurt breakfast - we'd stocked up on fruit at the local supermarket after we'd returned from France on Monday - we repaired to our balcony, enjoying our morning coffee while making plans for the day. 

The weather forecast kept insisting that we were in for another scorcher that day, which ruled out doing anything too taxing like uphill walking. Well, we'd already had our fair share of the latter in France the other day and we were definitely feeling the strain.



As luck would have it, there was a leaflet among our cottage's holiday brochures which immediately caught our eye. The castle domain in Zonnebeke, established on the site of a former Augustinian abbey (1072-1796), and incorporating the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917. A leafy walk and a chunk of World War I history sounded right up our street.

We wasted no time in packing a picnic, but before embarking on our 20-minute or so journey to Zonnebeke, let me show you what I was wearing first.




The blue organic cotton skirt I'd picked up in the Mango sales turned out to be such a joy to wear during our little getaway in August, that packing it for our holiday was a no-brainer. The funky floral top I combined it with was a purchase from the high street as well. By retro label Zoë Loveborn, it has been a Summer staple for years. The belt is again one of my favourite stretchy ones. On my feet, another pair of sales bargain Clarks, as I'd exchanged my comfy sandals for my even more comfy Cloudsteppers!

The sun was already climbing towards its zenith by the time we'd parked our car in one of the domain's car parks, a searing orb in a brilliant blue sky. 


Making our way towards the cover of some trees, we passed the 8-metre-tall memorial honouring the role of New Zealand’s Māori in the First World War. The pou maumahara (memorial carving) was created over four years from 4500-year-old native New Zealand timber by master carvers, tutors and students from the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute in Rotorua, New Zealand. 

Our leaflet contained a map indicating a 1,9 kilometer walking trail around the estate, and as it seemed to start at the museum and information centre, we walked into its direction. Both are located in a lake-fronted Normandy-style mansion which was built in 1922 to replace a castle bombarded into rubble during the war.

The faintest of alarm bells started going off in our heads when we couldn't find any signs and our fears were confirmed when the nice lady at the information desk informed us that the walk was indeed not signposted. You can't go wrong, she said. You can see the house at all times, she said. But we have a track record of getting lost, we said. I could see her smiling behind her mask.



We walked towards the lake as instructed and took the path skirting it, happily breathing in the scent of the late Summer air, a hint of Autumn carried along a whisper of a breeze. Soon we were faced with a choice of woodland paths which we selected at will, without a glance at the map. 

Arriving at a clearing, we detected random pools of red picket fences. Some head-scratching followed by a look at the map revealed that these were the Passchendaele Memorial Gardens, a series of eight poppy-shaped remembrance gardens created for the Battle of Passchendaele's centenary in 2017, each one designed by one of the nations that took part in the battle.

The one immediately in front of us turned out to be the United Kingdom's. Sitting down on a conveniently placed garden bench, we looked at the map, which confirmed that we'd already taken a wrong turning.


We were supposed to pass in front of Villa Zonnedaele, which we could see shimmering between the trees beyond the gardens, so we made our way towards it with the intention to continue the walk from there. The villa, commissioned by the castle's owner for his eldest daughter in 1933, turned out to be another sad case of neglect. 



After this false start, we resumed our walk, this time correctly passing all eight gardens, starting with the Belgian one, which you can see above.

The New Zealand garden (below, top left and bottom right) was my favourite, its centre piece a hollow concrete column, the scale of the door requiring visitors to bend low to enter, echoing the physical confinement of the battlefield trenches. 



I was also enamoured by the swathes of Echinacea juxtaposed with the red picket fence at the Canadian garden (top right and bottom left).

Two of the gardens were laid out separately from the others, and were somewhat hidden by lush thickets of shrubs and trees, and it was here that we had another wobble. Eventually we arrived back at the chalet, err ... castle, where we searched out a shady bench to have our picnic on.



Thus fortified, we were ready for the haunting experience which awaited us at the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917.

Aided by audio guides, the museum presents the history of the First World War in a poignant and vivid way, with a particular emphasis on the Battle of Passchendaele. 



This battle in 1917 is known as one of the most horrific of the First World War, with almost 600.000 casualties for a frontline movement of merely 8 kilometers. ‘Passchendaele’ not only became a concept in the history of the First World War, it also became a symbol of the great futility of the violence of war in all its horror. 



After the museum section, the tour continues with he unique Dugout Experience.  As a visitor, you discover how the British went to live underground in 1917, an oppressive experience that creates a disconcerting picture of the miserable and claustrophobic living conditions at that time. 


The final part of the museum constitutes a faithful reconstruction of German and British trenches, complete with  original shelters.



After this almost physical ordeal we felt worn out, which wasn't at all aided by the relentless heat of the sun, as the temperature continued to flirt with the high twenties. We sat down on a bench on the museum's verandah to recover before returning to our sauna-like car and driving home to our mercifully cool cottage.



On Wednesday the 8th, the weather thermostat was turned up even higher, the mercury forecasted to reach a scorching 30°C.

Nursing our morning cups of coffee on our balcony and mulling over the day's possibilities, I announced to Jos that I wanted to take some outfit photos in the hopfield across the road. So, before we started the day's adventures, that is exactly what we did.



As we'd planned a walk in the woods, I was wearing one of the pairs of lightweight wide-legged trousers I'd thrown into my suitcase. They are Zara by way of a charity shop, and I've worn the pussy-bow top - an ancient retail buy - with it many times before. A tried and tested no-brainer of an outfit. On my feet, barely visible in the photos, my pair of charity shopped pink floral sneakers.


The woods we'd selected for our walk were called Praetbos (bos is the Flemish word for wood), about half an hour's drive from Poperinge. On the outskirts of the small village of Vladslo, near the town of Diksmuide, it's adjacent to Vladslo German Military Cemetery.

Here, 25.638 German soldiers have found their final resting place. With stone tablets bearing multiple names, interspersed with roughly hewn stone crosses, there is a poignant sense of sadness and loss here, yet it feels soothingly peaceful in the dappled shade of the trees.
 


Among the soldiers who rest here is Peter Kollwitz, son of renowned German artist Käthe Kollwitz, who was killed at just 18 years old on October 23, 1914.  

For nearly twenty years, Käthe Kollwitz struggled to find a way to memorialize her dead son, discarding draft after draft, and putting the project aside temporarily in 1919. When she returned to the project in 1924, she settled on two simple figures, a mother and father with the features of Käthe and her husband Karl, who would kneel in mourning before the graves. Their son Peter's name is on the tablet just in front of the mourning father.



Our walk in the woods turned out to be only a very brief one, as once again, in spite of the leaflet outlining the walk, it was not signposted. 





So we just wandered at will and sat down on a bench where I gathered materials for a seasonal display.

The woodland paths were part of a 10,5 kilometer Käthe Kollwitz walk and indeed, her life and artwork ended up being the theme of the day, which continued with a visit to a museum dedicated to the artist in the nearby town of Koekelare.



In a unique former brewery setting, the Käthe Kollwitz Museum houses a collection of her original artwork.

Through these, one discovers how Käthe rebelled against war and poverty through her expressionist work. 




Being directly under the eaves, it was quite warm at the museum, and we were glad to have the space mostly to ourselves, so that we could take off our masks.

We declined a visit to another museum on the same site, which was included in the ticket price, as it was even hotter in there. So, after refreshments on a terrace on the town square, we made our way to the final leg of our day's adventures.



The day ended with a very leisurely walk in Koekelare Arboretum. Here we just had to follow the yellow signs ... Easy peasy!

Needless to say, we still managed to get lost, so when we caught sight of the car park, we decided to call it a day and made a beeline for a our car.

See you next time!



36 comments:

  1. The Maori memorial was superb and what an interesting concept with all those mino memorial gardens. I loved your outfit; the top looked very similar to Orla Kiel's designs and your shoes looked very comfortable. God bless, Clark's shoes.

    I'd love to see the Kathe Kollwitz museum being a great fan of her art. The memorial figures she created for her son's grave were very moving.

    Loved the outfit you wore on this day and although it may have been scorching you looked very cool!

    Have a great weekend,
    xxx

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    1. Thank you Vronni! I'd love to see more of Käthe Kollwitz's work some time. The museum's collection was fairly limited, but enough to whet my appetite! xxx

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  2. I find all the WWII things so emotional and overwhelming - I grew up with a pretty good understanding of Canada's role, and feel a great deal of pride for our fallen soldiers. I know Logan wants to visit some of the battle sites one day, so eventually we will make it over to the Netherlands and Belgium, I'm sure.

    What a wonderfully hot and summery few days you and Jos had, Ann! I love your beautiful blue skirt, and your wide-legged trousers.

    I hope you are close to caught up now - it's so much work when we take time off, isn't it? Have a great weekend, my friend!

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    1. Thank you Sheila! The area around Ypres really is a must-see if you ever make it over here. You'll get free guides in the process :-) xxx

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  3. the most haunting thing about the war museum is that still today mankind thinks that weapons and war are a way to solve problems and conflicts.......
    we are huge fans of käthe kollwitz´art - she lived her late years (and died) in a near village where the house is now a museum. and of cause her art was omnipresent in the GDR.
    you look fabulous in the blue maxi skirt - seems the perfect travel companion: easy to wear and comfy.
    hugsies! xxxx

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    1. That is so true, Beate, mankind will never learn, I suppose. We'll have to come and visit one day, so that you can show us around the museum! Or vice versa, of course :-) xxx

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  4. The war conditions for soldiers in WW1 were truly appealing and beyond horrible. I cannot even phantom how those men survived living in those trenches. I always say that it was the most depressive war in terms of fighting. Every war is tragic, but those soldiers really suffered inhumane conditions constantly. You spent all your time in the trenches or underground, wondering when you will be gassed or bombed. What is even worse, back then there was no medical knowledge about PTSP and shell shock wasn't even a term yet. The men who fought were left on their own after the war, their families often not being able to understand their condition or to help them- and how could they? The living conditions and WWI warfare were hard to even imagine yet understand. Not too long I watched the film War Horse and I think they captured it quite well in some ways (it is more a family film so it is not graphic in depiction of violence but still quite informative).

    I read a lot about both WW1 and WW2, trying to understand European's history better. When I was younger (a kid and teenager), I was attracted to far away lands and wanted to know more about them. As an adult, I realized that Europe is incredibly complex pot of culture and nations in itself and that one needs to study in detail to make any head or tails of it. Sometimes it seems to me that European culture is disappearing and that newer generations know so little about the past and the lives of their grandparents or even parents.

    On the upper side, I loved your travelling outfits, both pretty and chic. The blue maxi skirt looks great with the funky print top. I love the pants with the pussy bow top. Great outfits.

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    1. Thank you Ivana! It was only when we started visiting the area around Ypres, Flanders Fields country so to speak, that the devastation of WWI really hit home for me ... xxx

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  5. Hi Ann, The New Zealand garden design is excellent. What unimaginable horrors they all went through and the ones lucky enough to survive lived long lives without the tools to process their experiences. Horrendous! I love your little Autumnal collection….it’s definitely coming and the Mango skirt is gorgeous - perfect for this transitional period. xxx

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    1. Thank you Claire. The New Zealand garden was hauntingly beautiful. They really put quite a lot of thought into its design, and its progress was really well documented too. xxx

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  6. I confess I avoided the war museums in Normandy. Göga is alone in the war museums and I have e.g. looked at the Bayeux Tapestry. yes that is cowardly, but on vacation I would like to relax from everyday practice.
    But I look at you here and learn to deal with it. The New Zealand Monument is very beautiful. I didn't know there was something like that in Belgium.
    I like your outfits Ann and it's great that you had such wonderful weather.
    with a very huge hug Tina

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    1. I do understand, Tina. Visiting those museums isn't exactly a walk in the park. We try to limit our visits to them, and to the many WWI cemeteries here to just a handful each year. But the whole area is so steeped in WWI history that it would be a shame to miss the experience, however haunting. xxx

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  7. Hey Ann,
    You may have seen my message on Facebook saying I really enjoy these series. I teach art and think it might be great to take our students there.



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    1. Thank you so much, I'm glad you enjoyed my travelogues. Just let me know if you need any information. xxx

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  8. I like your outfits, especially the first one with that pretty skirt! it's good you were able to still get out and explore despite the heat. It must have been a hard few days with the heat feeling like a lot for you (even though that's beautiful spring temps here!) and the emotional sights you visited.

    We have a fort kind of nearby which is a leftover from war but not that many memorial gardens - these look like sad but lovely pieces to visit.

    Hope you are having a lovely weekend :) We had a fun day at the playground yesterday.

    Away From The Blue

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    1. Thank you Mica! I know that you're used to these kind of temperatures over there. I remember you feeling the cold when you visited Europe, but that's just normal for us as well. xxx

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  9. I love all those historical stories. They can bring you back a little to that time. It's a area full of history there I see. So funny that you both always get lost! Story of our lives when we cycle. Have you ever been to Dover castle? In the underground areas? You really should next time you are in the UK.

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    1. Thank you Nancy! I must confess that we never visited Dover Castle, but will definitely make sure to make it there one day! xxx

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  10. haha.. even with your wobbles you managed to have a wonderful little excursion. Those garden and statues all look amazing. And to have the fortune of such a wonderfully sunny day as well.

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    1. Thank you Hena, we couldn't believe our luck with the weather, given the fact that we had such a lousy Summer! xxx

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  11. Ah, despite the worries over getting lost, you had a lovely walk. I love all the photos.
    Your lovely photos are excellent! I would gladly wear all of your outfits! The museum is really interesting. I would love to visit!

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    1. Thank you Kezzie! Getting lost has become our trademark it seems. We don't mind really, as long as we find our way back in the end :-) xxx

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  12. wasn't it great to get some good weather at last. I love reading what you both get up to and admire how much you manage to pack into your week xx

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    1. Thank you Laurie! The weather was absolutely glorious, finally! xxx

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  13. Such a gripping, heart-tugging story regarding the loss of that young man's life in WWI and how his mother chose to honour his memory via her extraordinary artwork. If I'm not mistaken, this is the first time I have been introduced to Käthe Kollwitz and her work. You've piqued my interest to learn more and I will be researching her immediately.

    Autumn Zenith 🎃 Witchcrafted Life


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    1. Thank you Autumn, and I'm glad to have piqued your interest! xxx

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  14. I enjoyed seeing these pictures from your walk. I really liked your first outfit with the blue maxi skirt.
    xoxo
    Lovely
    www.mynameislovely.com

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    1. Thank you so much Lovely! I'm so glad I went ahead and bought that blue skirt! xxx

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  15. Love these posts, I always enjoy your photos and the way you take us with you in your visit. So many moving details!
    And your trousers and top make a fab combo, comfy&cool and colourful!.
    besos

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    1. Thank you Monica, and the pleasure is all mine, I love taking you along and relive our day at the same time! xxx

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  16. Those visits to the museums must've been incredibly moving. It's almost impossible to get my head round the deaths at Passchendaele; even today that's a very big town or small city. I went in a small above-ground trench recreation at an event here in Trow and it made me all sniffly; being in those ones must feel almost unbearable.

    The gardens look beautiful, and very peaceful.

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    1. They are absolutely moving, indeed. We went to the In Flanders Fields museum in Ypres a couple of years ago, and it was so haunting and oppressing that I had tears in my eyes the whole time we were there. xxx

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