Monday 21 September 2020

Far from the madding crowd

Hello, and welcome to the third episode of my latest travelogue! 

We have now arrived on the Wednesday of our week away, which the calendar told us was 2 September. With schools having restarted the previous day, the worst of the tourist season was well and truly over, but we still opted to spend our time as far away from any lingering crowds as possible.

The weather gods kept treating us kindly, so that we could continue to indulge in one of our favourite pastimes and go for socially distanced rambles in the beautiful countryside surrounding us.

What's more, the weather forecast insisted that this would be the best day of the week, with balmy temperatures well into the twenties. 



That morning, I pulled another pair of wide-legged trousers out of my suitcase, in a cheerful cherry red strewn with blowsy flowers in pink, peach and green. Same as my other pair, it is from New Look, this one bought brand new in the sales a couple of years ago. 

They were actually not the only retail item in my outfit, as my Clarks Cloudsteppers, my blue crossbody bag and my necklace were all bought on the high street. My King Louie top was charity shopped, though, while the flower embroidered denim jacket came from Think Twice.



We'd picked a walk starting from De Palingbeek, a provincial estate of about 250 hectares on the outskirts of Ypres. We'd done the same walk six years ago, but when I was googling the exact address of the estate's car park, I saw that the walking map of the area had recently been updated. So, before we set off that morning we went into Poperinge, our nearest little town, to get a new map from the tourist office located in the town's stunning neo-Gothic town hall (top left). 

Since we were there, we went to a local bakery and bought a loaf of bread which came packed in a very Polyester Princess-worthy paper bag!

Armed with our map and the picnic Jos had prepared that morning, we entered the car park's address into our car's Satnav and were on our way. Easy-peasy! Or so we thought. But no: the bloody thing took us to a golf course on a single track road and announced that we were there. Of course, there was no car park in sight, so there we sat, hemmed in by the golf course which stretched out on both sides of the road. In desperation we drove around the area's myriad of country lanes until, propelled along by a stroke of luck and a good look at the map, we ultimately made it to the car park.



By then, it was past midday, so after having parked our car - which was further thwarted by on-site construction work - we made our way to a picnic site for a bite to eat.

Then, after making use of the on-site hand sanitizing station at the edge of a playground, we were finally ready to start our walk.



The estate offers a varied landscape of sloping woodland, orchards and meadows, marches and pools.

The latter are often not quite the peaceful pools they appear to be at first sight, owing their existence to mines which were detonated underneath the German positions at nearby Hill 60 in June 1917.



Our walk eventually took us to the most famous of these pools, known as Caterpillar Crater, but once again this had seriously suffered from the ongoing drought, which left the 79,2 meter wide and 15,5 meter deep crater (bottom left) only partly filled.



The return journey passed the impressive art installation Coming World Remember Me by artist Koen Vanmechelen. Originally consisting of 600.000 clay heads sculptured by thousands of people from across the globe, representing the 600.000 victims who lost their lives as a result of WWI in Belgium, it was displayed in the estate between March and November 2018.

Many people went home with one of the hand-sculpted heads, but the central sculpture (the egg) as well as 200.000 heads have now received a permanent resting place here.



With our walk finished sooner than we'd expected, we thought we'd check out one of the many military cemeteries which are such a feature of the area.  While we were lost on those country lanes that morning, our attention had been caught by the sight of the ubiquitous rows of white headstones nestling in the gently rolling countryside, punctuated by two gazebo-like structures and shimmering like an oasis in the glaring midday sun. Intrigued, we tried to find out its name and exact location, which we soon did. It turned out driving there was only a matter of minutes.




Bedford House Cemetery is one of the largest British cemeteries in the area. It stands in what was once the park of Rosendael Castle, which the British troops renamed "Bedford House" during the war, when it served as a headquarters and a medical aid post. It never fell into enemy hands, but the house was gradually destroyed by shell fire. 

The magnificent garden architecture, and the fact that the castle's moat and the remains of its ice house are incorporated into the design, makes Bedford House Cemetery a unique and poignantly beautiful site.


The next day, Thursday, was a total contrast on the weather front, with a dull grey sky and significantly cooler temperatures greeting us when we stepped out onto our balcony.

I was wearing my other pair of wide-legged trousers again, this time combined with a pale green floral vintage skirt, topped by a charity shopped coral polka dot cardigan and accessorized with a vintage necklace and leaf brooch. 

No rain seemed to be on the horizon, so we picked another walk for the day, for which I exchanged my ankle boots for my boring yet comfortable walking shoes.



For the start of our walk, we drove down to a different provincial estate, called De Blankaart, which lies just outside the town of Diksmuide, and is about half an hour's drive from our cottage.

Its visitors centre is housed in a picturesque castle, originally built in 1860-1870, although the current construction dates from the 1920s as the destruction of the First World War had only spared its façade.

Located on the edge of the River IJzer's flood plains, the castle is surrounded by a magnificent park. The castle has a permanent exhibition on the area's fauna and flora, but its doors were firmly closed. Free walking leaflets, however, were readily available, as was a hand sanitizing unit cleverly built into a tree.



The picnic area was deserted so, while eating our sandwiches at one of the tables, we proceeded to study the map supplied with the leaflet, opting for the 5,6 kilometer walk instead of the longer 10 kilometer one. The shorter walk would follow the longer one's path for a stretch, and would then require a right turn instead of a left at some point. Easy-peasy, no?


Confidently, we started our walk, following the hexagonal sign posts which initially lead us through some woodland. It didn't take long until we came to the first of many bird hides offering a view of the area's watery grass and reedlands, with the vast IJzer wetlands behind them. 

The weather had turned quite windy by now, so that by the time we made it to a decorative iron bridge offering the most enchanting of views of the castle across a waterlily pad filled lake, we were almost blown away in both senses of the word.



It was here that we met a couple walking their dog, whom we would later meet again at a turning, looking at the rather rudimentary map and scratching their heads. They told us they were still debating whether to do the shorter or the longer walk, and that a right turn indicating diagonally across the meadows would take us to the shorter circuit. With our impressive track record of getting lost, we took no chances, agreed that this was the anticipated right turn, and went ahead, soon followed by the dog-walking couple.

Much to or surprise, though, we found ourselves back at the castle within minutes. Surely we couldn't have walked 5,6 kilometers already, only about a kilometer at a rough guess. The dog-walking couple didn't seem to think anything was wrong, and were last seen cycling off with their dog in one of those carts, but after studying the map once again, we decided to recross the meadow and continue left instead of right at the turning.


From here, the walk was getting more and more adventurous, leading us through meadows and along stretches of boardwalk, one of them quite higgledy piggledy, with some of the wooden slats broken or missing. Fortunately, the whole thing was supported by sturdy iron grilles! At one point, a gnarled old tree was doing its best to catch careless walkers unawares and reward them with a bump on the head.

Not us, I hasten to add, but on our way back we did meet a lady who was clutching her head after a painful collision with the tree in question.



At this point, we still weren't sure we were on the right track and hadn't inadvertently missed the elusive right turning. Stubbornly, we plodded on, alternately propelled along and hampered by the wind which by then had greatly increased in force. When we spotted the tower (bottom right), which apparently was another bird hide, in the distance, we decided to make this our goal and then see if we could climb it and make out our exact location. 


The wind blowing through the open structure was making our ears sting and our eyes water, but climbing to its top floor, which thankfully was not in the open, rewarded us with the most stunning of views over the wetlands. Studying the map once more, we determined we were still on the right track and proceeded until, hey presto, we came to the very spot where the two paths diverged. 

Here, the shorter circuit initially took us along a narrow tarmacked lane until we reached a path leading to another meadow, which we had to cross to arrive back at the wonky boardwalk. 

We were quite proud of ourselves for having persevered and finished the walk without actually getting lost a second time. As the visitors centre had opened by now, we even treated ourselves to a celebratory takeaway coffee.

"We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive at where we started
And know the place for the first time."
-   T. S. Eliot,  Little Gidding





Then it was back to the cottage, where much to our delight, hop picking had started in the fields opposite. 

We watched proceedings for a while, while in our turn being watched by the owner's cat, Chablis, who was making the most of the last rays of the sun, which had suddenly appeared out of nowhere.

Another day gone by, and how we wished we could have stopped time, but alas, two more days and it would be all over.

Please do join me again for the final episode of my travelogue in a couple of days. Until then, do stay safe, my friends!


42 comments:

  1. Enjoy the rest of your holiday Ann.I hope the weather holds up for you. There are some lovely photos here xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Laurie! The weather was kind to us all week! xxx

      Delete
  2. What a walking adventure you two had! Poorly signed/mapped parks can be such a pain. Someday, L and I will make it over there - I know he really wants to see some of these places from WWII, like Ypres. My great-uncle fought (in the Canadian Forces) there.

    Love your palazzo pants - they are so fun! I laughed at your grumpy blown-away face, sorry! Great TS Eliot quote.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a beautiful area around Ypres, which is why we keep going back. There are WWI linked places around every corner. A couple of years back, we visited the Passchendaele Canadian Memorial, which of course should be a must-visit if you make it over here! xxx

      Delete
  3. Adore the Thomas Hardy reference in the title of this wonderfully lovely sightseeing post, dear Ann. Thank you very much for taking us along on your exciting adventures. What a breathtaking view of that castle - I would imagine it was even dreamier in person (swoon).

    Immense hugs & the very happiest start of fall wishes coming your way!

    Autumn Zenith 🎃 Witchcrafted Life

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Autumn, I'm glad you enjoyed tagging along on our adventures! xxx

      Delete
  4. Wow! Cool stuff. Thanks for taking us with you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Checking the date/time stamp, I just realized you are already in tomorrow. We're still Sept. 21st here. What's it like living in the future?! :)

      Delete
    2. Now as you have caught up, do you know? ;-)

      Delete
    3. Thank you Ally! I guess it's always the future somewhere in the world! xxx

      Delete
  5. First of all, Ann, I love your wide legged pants. They really suit you!

    And I loved living vicariously through your holiday snaps. Getting lost is always frustrating but a funny memory in hindsight. X

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Jess! I definitely agree, and I'm so used to us getting lost all the time I keep telling Jos it will make a funny anecdote in years to come :-) xxx

      Delete
  6. Very nice. No people. What a blessing! However, no one could see your beautiful trouseres. :-) All the best. xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Regula! But you are quite wrong, as all my blog readers and following can see my trousers :-) xxx

      Delete
  7. i´m always touched when you visiting the sites of WWI in your country.... lately i saw a fashion post about trenchcoats with some history - not mentioning from where the name comes - of cause. no glam in this.
    the 2.walk looks gorgeous with all the water and wilderness - despite the weather. your colorful outfits provide lots of sunshine anyway :-D
    xxxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Perhaps people should take a crash course in WWI history before being allowed to wear a trench coat! I loved that 2nd walk very much, but I'd like to do it again in Winter, when wearing wellies is required! xxx

      Delete
  8. I loved Far From the Maddening Crowd (novel) and I love you post. So nice to read another of your travel posts.
    Those cheerful red floral wide trousers are gorgeous and I like how you paired them with a printed blue top, bag and a denim jacket. I do love a nice blue and read combo.
    The second outfit you wore with trousers is just as fabulous. You really do wear trousers well. The red cardigan paired with those dark printed trousers and a green blouse---such a lovely combo.
    Great to read about the history of Bedford House Cemetery. Interesting to learn that is one of the largest British cemeteries in the area and that it was once the park of Rosendael Castle...sorry to hear about the caste being destroyed in the war efforts and fallen under the shell fire.

    The garden of this castle still looks beautiful, it's great that you were able to visit it. I imagine that the area is in many ways still beautiful, even if it might be a nostalgic kind of beauty at some parts.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Ivana! I've been told before that I do wear trousers well, and perhaps I should wear them more. But I just love wearing skirts and dresses better. Perhaps because I wore mainly trousers for many years! xxx

      Delete
  9. The egg sculpture is magnificent. When you say that some people went away with one of the heads, do you mean they have taken in with them without questioning or was it originally the plan of the sculpture (before it found its final setting place here).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's a very good question, Ivana! In fact, at the end of the original exhibition, people were allowed to come and pick a sculpture to take home with them. The intention was that the sculpture would be removed in its entirety, but then it was decided to permanently exhibit the egg and remaining sculptures. xxx

      Delete
  10. Oh you hardy travellers! That looked like a lovely walk with lots of interesting things to see. I loved the egg/heads sculpture...

    Cemeteries are such moving places. I have only seen the rows of white headstones you described at the American cemetery in Madingley, Cambridge. My cousin who lives in Hove and is a keen cyclist was meant to be touring the WW1 cemeteries by bike; but of course Covid-19 thwarted his plans.

    Loved your outfit and I think I have very similar Clark's walking shoes...

    Take care
    xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Vronni, and I do hope your cousin gets to do the bike tour when all this is over. Over the years, we met a lot people doing the same, and I think it's definitely worth it! xxx

      Delete
  11. Oh what an adventure. I enjoy reading and watching this nice pictures so much!
    with a huge hug Tina

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Tina! I'm so glad you enjoyed tagging along on my adventures! xxx

      Delete
  12. Two more utterly beautiful walks. I'm so glad that you were able to get away.
    xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Hazel! Getting away did us the world of good. I hope we'll be able to go on another little trip later this year. xxx

      Delete
  13. What a beautiful area you live nearby. I love that insect hotel! That's a huge one. The art work is impressive. We also have military cemeteries nearby. Because of the battle at Arnhem, a bridge to far. We hired a boat on that same day, it was a glorious sunny day, even up in the north!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Nancy! There are some beautiful places in Belgium, people just need to appreciate them more! xxx

      Delete
  14. As someone that can get lost in a car park, I am in awe of your navigation skills.

    hand sanitiser stations are such a good idea-wish we had something similar.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Goody, although I wouldn't be surprised at all if we got lost in a car park too :-) xxx

      Delete
  15. The ponds look so beautiful and it's good yo think beauty could evolve from the ugliness of war.
    Your walks look both relaxing and reviving, I bet your holiday did you both the world of good.
    I love the photo of the evening sky you took when you returned to the cottage.
    Chablis is a great name! xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sally! I kept popping out on that balcony to take photographs of the evening sky! xxx

      Delete
  16. I’m sorry Ann but I’m chuckling my head off here. You sound so English when you write and your antics on the Wednesday made me laugh.
    You find some lovely places and always make the most of your holidays both of you.
    Big changes over here this week and we are all having to take extra precautions and stay out of each other’s houses and gardens. The pubs and restaurants now close at 10pm. Lots of people being made redundant and businesses closing down. Not looking great my friend. Hope things are better for you xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No need to be sorry, Lynn, I'm actually pleased that you were chuckling your head off. And even more when you're telling me I sound English. That is a huge compliment to me, you know! xxx

      Delete
  17. Hello Ann. Thank you for this lovely guide through the parks and estate. What an amazing feature that clay head sculpture is. Reconstructing those mine sites and turning them into ponds is a fabulous idea. Perfect place for people to take a moment and reflect. Thank you also for the history lesson on the castle and cemetery.

    Seems most people who have a Satnav have an hysterical story to tell. Aren't they frustrating! Poorly directing signs are just as bad. You definitely deserved that coffee after reaching your destination.

    Love your outfits. A little different from your usual vintage dresses, but delightful all the same. Those floral pants are amazing! I must look out for some myself.

    Have a great weekend.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Suzy, and you're welcome to tag along any time! I do think those mine craters turned themselves into ponds, but they look so peaceful now it's hard to imagine all the suffering that took place! xxx

      Delete
  18. What a nice walk! Interesting De Blankaart and his castle .. I really like your colorful outfits ... sooner or later I will look for such beautiful pants!
    Have a Good Weekend!
    Carmela

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Carmela! I was very lucky finding those trousers. I've been looking around for some more of these wide-legged ones, but haven't been lucky so far! xxx

      Delete
  19. What an adventurous day you had, getting lost and finding yourselves again!

    That sculpture is really thought-provoking even in its reduced form - it must have been incredibly moving when all the heads were in place.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Mim! Getting lost must be our superpower, I guess. Always funny in hindsight! xxx

      Delete
  20. Thank you for this lovely excursion, the photos and the anecdotes are both so interesting and enjoyable!. Love a long walk with a little bit of adventure (including getting lost for a while!).
    I'm really impressed by the art installation, and the cemetery too. So moving.
    Love both your trousers, they are such colorful pieces, the prints are Amazing!, and love how you accessorized them brilliantly!
    Glad to see there are plenty of hand sanitiser everywhere (I'm becoming obsessed with it!), and that you could enjoy the landscape almost by yourselves.
    besos

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Monica! I'm glad you enjoyed our adventures. Getting lost isn't always fun at the time, but provides us with the anecdotes afterwards. I was very impressed to see the hand sanitizers in those nature reserves. xxx

      Delete