Showing posts with label Poppit Sands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Poppit Sands. Show all posts

Thursday, 27 July 2017

Garden of delight

Let's continue with the Welsh travelogue!

It was the Friday of our first week by now, and the weather didn't show any signs of improvement: it was raining when we got up, and still raining after we'd finished breakfast.

Still hoping for a break in the weather, we waited, and waited, but as nothing happened we had to admit defeat and visit one of our other wet weather options.

Scolton Manor is a traditional Victorian country house set in 60 acres of park and woodland, 5 miles north of Pembrokeshire's county town, Haverfordwest.



The house was designed and built by a local firm of architects, and finished in 1842.

Until it was acquired by Pembrokeshire County Council in 1972, it was home to successive generations of the Higgon family.



With the rain still in evidence, we roamed the mansion's rooms, experiencing Victorian country life above and below stairs.

In the meantime, the rain had abated, which we took advantage of by exploring the grounds.



It didn't take long for it to start pelting down again, this time in earnest, so that we made a hasty retreat to our car.

It was on our way back to Cardigan that we had to stop for a herd of cows crossing the road.

Well, what can I say? Sh*t happens! We did have quite a smelly car for a day or so ...



On Saturday morning, it was still drizzling on and off, but we had plans!

We'd seen a notice in Coast to Coast, the yearly magazine published by Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, that there was a vintage fair in Newport, a small coastal town less than half an hour up the road, where we hoped to spend a couple of hours browsing the stalls.

Imagine our disappointment at finding the venue closed and the fair cancelled!

Suffice to say I was in a foul mood! We moped around the small town, thinking on our feet on what to do instead.



As it was nearly 12 o' clock by then, we drove down to Newport Parrog, one of the town's beaches, and had our picnic sitting inside a shelter, taking in one of our favourite views, towards Dinas Head (the obvious, rounded headland in the distance), ripples tickling the gaily painted boats bobbing up and down in the small harbour.

Then I remembered a garden, which was in the neighbourhood, but which we'd never visited before, hoping it had stopped drizzling by the time we got there.




It was a 15 minute drive down to the garden, which is nestling in a valley on the outskirts of the town of Fishguard.

The rain had virtually stopped by now, but slate grey clouds were still in evidence, threatening more rain without a moment's notice.



Dyffryn Fernant gardens is a wonderful surprise, a hidden gem of a garden, its 6 acres set just below the Preseli uplands, watched over by the rocky outcrop of Garn Fawr. Its owner, Christina Shand, started the garden from wilderness in 1996.



The area around the delightful cottage is a riot of colour, provided by tender things such as dahlias, pelargoniums, salvias and agapanthus, from which the garden gradually makes its way to the wilderness beyond, by way of fernery, bog garden, wild marsh and pond.



Everywhere, the flotsam and jetsam of every day life are used to enhance the casually (to the eye, at least) planted up areas, garden rooms, if you like, separate but forming an organically grown whole.

Then there are the cleverly placed works of art, which are dotted around the garden, focal points amid the lush planting.

Sitting places are abundant, too, inviting you to take in the garden from all angles, or just to simply sit and be, perhaps getting lost in a daydream.



There's even a library for garden visitors, with a wide selection of books on gardening and art, with a table and chairs to browse them at ease while having a cup of coffee or tea.

We came across an old cat asleep on a bench, who started following us around, meowing loudly. As we sat down near this clever water feature (top right), its gentle gurgling a soothing sound, she demonstrated its use as a drinking fountain by delicately licking its sides.



Water crazy Phoebe would love this!

After we were finally able to tear ourselves away from this oasis, we took a scenic route through the Gwaun Valley, a verdant, steep sided valley created during the last Ice Age, with a unique atmosphere and plenty of prehistoric sites.

The people living in the valley's hamlets uphold a special tradition: they still celebrate New Year's Day or Hen Galan on 13th January according to the old Julian calendar!



While trundling along, we passed The Dyffryn Arms, which is not just your run of the mill pub. Prehistoric it may not be, but it's definitely a time capsule of a bygone era. Owned by Bessie Davies for more than 35 years, and known locally as Bessie's, it is a simple room in the front of her house, and the beer is served through a hatch straight from the barrel.

We didn't get to see Bessie herself, though, and as we don't drink alcohol, neither did we taste the ale, but we wouldn't have missed the experience for the world, chatting to a couple of locals, one of them even taking our photograph, even though this wasn't without its hiccups!



En route again, we passed signs to Pentre Ifan, a fine example of a Cromlech, which we followed through a maze of country lanes basking in the sun, which had finally made an appearance.

Returning to the main road, we were suddenly faced by a ford which, following the example of the car in front of us, we were brave enough to cross!



Before heading back to our cottage, we drove on to Poppit Sands, a large sandy beach backed by dunes, at the mouth of the Teifi Estuary. With the tide out, we walked across the large expanse of sand towards the sea, warmed by the late afternoon sun and with a gentle sea breeze ruffling my hair.



In the distance, near Cardigan Island, we spotted a cloud of playfully dancing kites - there was a Kite Festival going on - patterning the sudden blue of the sky.



Looking back, the ever watchful coast guards' hut nestling near the dunes looked like a discarded child's toy, shrunk by distance and all but lost in the landscape.


Looking all wind blown, but oh so happy, a perfect ending to a perfect day!



Friday, 22 July 2016

Memories are made of this

Welcome to the last stretch of our Welsh holiday!

By now, it was the Monday of the second week, and as the sun was shining for a change, we decided to visit the National Trust owned Stackpole Estate in South Pembrokeshire. This beautiful estate comprises 12 square kilometres of farmland, woodland, lakes, beaches, and cliffs.

The freshwater lakes, known as the Lily Ponds, or the Bosherston Lakes, are man-made and were created over 150 years ago by the damming of three narrow valleys by the earls of Cawdor, then owners of the Stackpole Estate.



Stackpole Court itself is no longer there, having been demolished in 1963 to avoid having to pay taxes on the empty building, leaving behind only the estate's outbuildings, parkland and beaches.

From the car park at Bosherston, there is a lovely walk around (and over) the lakes, which in June are carpeted by water lilies.



Within minutes, we were joined by the local wildlife, including a cheeky little robin and a heron treating the lakes as a fast-food restaurant. Oh, and there's me as well ...



A little diversion and an uphill scramble were rewarded by a bird's-eye view of the lakes.

After about 30 minutes the landscape changed dramatically as we were getting closer to the sea and eventually the beach at Broadhaven South came into view.



The rock which beckons tantalizingly in the distance is Pinnacle Rock, also known, for obvious reasons, as Church Rock. Just as I was about to take a picture, a heavyset couple dressed in hideous beachwear plonked themselves right in the middle of my frame.

After our picnic, we joined the coast path climbing away from the beach for a closer look at Church Rock.

Next day was a bit of a letdown, as it started raining as soon as we had reached our destination, the Georgian seaside town of Aberaeron in Cardiganshire.








After a car picnic without a view (unless our windscreen wipers were going at full speed), we drove to the nearby National Trust property of Llanerchaeron, a 18th century Welsh gentry estate which has survived virtually unaltered.












The house was built by John Nash in 1795.

Unfortunately, I couldn't take a proper photograph of the outside, as it was covered in scaffolding.


Exploring the house, servant's quarters and stables kept us occupied (and dry!) for a couple of hours.


By then the sun had come out and we were able to pay a short visit to the farm buildings and walled garden.

On Wednesday the weather was truly horrendous, too wet even to properly enjoy some retail therapy in the pleasant town of Carmarthen. Needless to say, no photographs were taken.

Thursday proved a little better (it could hardly be worse, couldn't it), but the weather was still very unstable.


We opted for a short coast path walk starting from nearby Ceibwr Bay, in West Pembrokeshire, also National Trust owned.


Ceibwr Bay is a tiny inlet of rocks surrounded by tall cliffs and it's a really wild and remote place, with amazing folds in the rock strata in the cliffs.


One mile to the south is The Witches Cauldron, which we decided to walk to.
Pwll-y-Wrach or The Witches Cauldron is a large collapsed cave forming a hole in the clifftop, where in rough weather the sea comes surging into, thereby giving it its name. When we were there a couple of years ago, the weather was mild and there was only a tranquil pool of water in the cauldron. Now, in spite of the weather, it was virtually empty.


It had started drizzling by then, so we walked back in a hurry, but by the time we were back at Ceibwr Bay it was dry again, just in time for our picnic with a view.


Friday was our last day and we were starting to feel quite melancholic. The ultimate picnic with a view was called for and we drove to a famous viewpoint overlooking Poppit Sands at Gwbert. Although we were only the second car arriving at the car park, we certainly weren't the last. It was clearly the place of choice for local people to have lunch in, and with a view like that, who can blame them?


After lunch, we drove to Poppit Sands itself, at the opposite side of the Teifi Estuary, for a final walk along the beach.


It was quite blustery and with a temperature of only 17°C not what you would expect of a summer day at the end of June. As you can see, the beach was virtually empty and the lifeguards certainly didn't have a very busy day.


With one more backward glance at the sea, all too soon it was time to pack our bags and say goodbye for another year, leaving behind our footsteps and taking away lots of lovely memories.


-- The End --