Sunday 22 September 2019

With love and squalor: a French adventure

Are you ready for another ride in the time machine? Well, fasten your seatbelts, as here we go, the time navigator set for the Thursday of the first week of September.

Tentatively lifting a corner of our cottage's curtains to see what the weather was like, we were pleasantly surprised to see the lake illuminated by mellow early morning sunlight. There were some dark clouds about as well, which for the moment we chose to ignore.

And look, here's one of the two resident sheep, coming up to the house for its morning treat!


It was a toss-up between a day at the seaside or a hop over the border into France, but when we learned that rain might be on the menu on this side of the border, while there was a sunny outlook for our planned destination in France, the decision was virtually made for us.


I decided on wearing one of the pairs of wide floral trousers I'd brought. I found this particular pair in a charity shop in Shropshire, and this was actually its first wear. My suitcase contained a choice of tops to wear with it, but I opted for full-on visibility by choosing this turqoise blouse with over-the-top blowsy flower print. It closes at the back with a very long zipper, which is only one of several indications that it started life as a dress. Isn't it wonderful that someone, somewhere, decided to salvage it by turning it into a blouse?

Having decided on a day abroad, our destination for the day was the town of St. Omer, 45 kilometers and a drive of just under an hour away. 

The town, which has medieval origins, boasts a rich heritage with several historical monuments, and - according to its website - is the ideal place to wander, with cobbled streets and lively squares.


We cursed under our breaths when soon after starting out, at the point when our satnav made us turn off the main road and onto her favoured small country lanes, the first drops appeared on our windscreen. 

It rained on and off for a while, then it stopped altogether, with more and more patches of blue emerging and the dove grey clouds being joined by white cotton wool ones.

The road meandered through endless acres of fields, and the landscape, which had been dotted with tiny hamlets and tumbledown farms with ancient equipment rusting away alongside them, was getting emptier by the minute, until we were driving through what looked like an enchanted forest laced with marshland patches. 

A sign told us that this was a nature reserve called le Forêt Dominiale de Rihoult Clairmarais (the Forest of Clairmarais), and soon we saw another one directing us to the Grotte de Clairmarais, a prominent place of pilgrimage. We parked our car and made our way to the grotto, where we burned a votive candle bought from the small white pavillion on its right, a self-service shop with an honesty box, selling an array of saintly goodies.


After this diversion, we finally arrived in St.Omer, our satnav directing us to the town centre. Having seen no car park signs, we parked opposite a forbidding Victorian style school building in the Rue St. Bertin, where we were assured by a passing town official that parking was free and the walk into town would only take 10 minutes.

In order to make sure we'd find our way back, I took a picture of the street name of the nearest side road, which was the Rue de Notre Dame de Patience.

By that time, I was getting quite impatient to go and explore the town.


We soon passed a small square on our right, the Place St. Denis, where the eponymous church (top right and bottom left), orginally dating from the 13th Century but partly rebuilt in the 18th Century, clearly seemed to have seen better days.

Continuing on the Rue St. Bertin, our eyes were drawn to the Italianate tower of the Jesuit Chapel, which the late morning sun was illuminating with an orange glow. We walked into its direction but found its doors firmly locked.


I'd printed a walk off a travel website but, before we could make a start, we wanted to get our bearings, so we went in search of the Tourist Office to get a map and some leaflets.

Following signs pointing us into the right direction, we found it tucked away in a courtyard off one of the town's main squares. Deckchairs printed with the town's name were set out on the lawn, which faces the side of the town's cathedral, and which we will visit in a minute. 

Armed with a town guide, we had a cup of coffee in the on-site café, a small pavillion which had the most fabulous wallpaper ever. Here you can see that, not trusting the weather forecast one bit, I was wearing my famous green raincoat!


As it was still too early for lunch, we thought we'd check out the cathedral first. 

Well, what can I say?  First of all, we were simply knocked over by its vast size of over 100 metres and, in places, a height of 23 metres.

Situated at the heart of its own close, the cathedral has been on the list of historical monuments since 1840.

Even from the very back of the close, and with the wide angle of my camera, it was virtually impossible to capture its full size in one photograph. The best we could do was using the cheapo fisheye lens we'd bought for our phones (top left).



Saint-Omer-cathedral, or to give it its proper name, Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Saint-Omer, was started before 1200 and was finally completed in the 15th Century.

Due to its magnificent interior, it is one of the richest churches in France. The organ (above, bottom right) is one of its main treasures. There are other exquisite details to explore as well: marble and alabaster chapels, classical and baroque paintings, funerary monuments, wood carvings and ancient floor tiles, this cathedral simply has it all.


There has been an extensive restoration programme in the last decade, and although there is still a lot of work to do, I have to admit that I thought the juxtaposition of the cathedral's opulence and delapidation particularly charming.

Case in point is the genuine Rubens painting, The Descent from the Cross, dating from 1616 (above, top left), in its ornate gilt frame, which is displayed rather incongruently in a grotty corner, behind a makeshift barrier even I could have jumped.



We explored the cathedral's fascinating interior with its endless nooks and crannies, until our stomachs told us it was now definitely time for lunch.

Before we go outside again, however, I wanted to show you the cathedral's innovative way of divesting you of your hard earned money (top, bottom left). No need to despair if you haven't got any cash on you, as you can make a donation or even buy a candle using your bank card!


Walking back towards the town centre, I remembered a restaurant recommendation from the website I'd downloaded the walk from. Called Les Frangins, it is one which is also frequented by locals? which is always a good sign. Looking up from consulting my paperwork for its address, I actually spotted its name at the far end of the square we'd just entered.


We both ordered salmon, which came accompanied by rice and locally grown veg - the area is particularly known for its cauliflower cultivation - not to mention a most delicious sauce.

After a "petit café", we were ready to roll again. 


By then , we had abandoned all pretense of following the walk's directions, deciding to just saunter around the town, following our noses and taking note of the squalor which went happily hand in hand with the splendour, a phenomenon which seems to be typical of the towns of the area.



We then retraced our steps to the Jesuit chapel as recommended by the lovely lady at the Toursist Office. Built between 1615 and 1640, it is no longer in use as a church. After its refurbishment between 2013 and 2016, this architectural jewel's lofty interior is now the place for exhibitions, concerts and seminars. 

We were in luck, as it was the final day of the current exhibition of early 20th Century black and white photographs of the town and the area.




We'd spotted a bakery a little further up the street - Artisan Boulanger, you can see its sign in collage number 5 above - where we stopped to buy a loaf of bread for our evening meal and breakfast. And no, it does not come with a recommendation, as that bread turned out to be quite unpalatable. Oh well, we probably should have bought a baguette. When in France, and all that!

Before calling it a day, there was one more historical site that we wanted to visit, which was at the other end of the street where we'd parked our car.


Close to the edge of town, where it meets the Canal de Neufossé and the marshy areas of the Forest of Clairmarais, lie the romantic ruins of Saint-Bertin-Abbey.

Created in the 7th Century, it was one of the first Benedictine abbeys to the North of Paris and it grew into one of the most powerful abbeys in Northern Europe during the entire medieval period. 

During the revolution, the abbey was closed and fell into ruin.

The site of the ruins, however, cannot be visited, but only admired from behind the iron railings surrounding them. On the square in front of the ruins is a marble statue of Abbot Suger, a benefactor of St. Bertin.


Rather then returning to our car, we took a paralell road leading us back into the town centre, as we couldn't possibly leave without any fortifications.

These we found at a Salon du Thé in the town's main square, situated rather appropriately inside the town's former town hall which due to its shape is fondly called "the coffee mill".

Here we had another "petit café", which was served in gold coloured cups, and scrumptious Moelleux au Chocolat with warm chocolate sauce.


Then it was really time to call it a day and return along those delightful country lanes, accompanied by great big skies full of clouds which appeared to be gliding over the harvested fields.

Linking my wide-legged trousers and floral blouse to Mica's Weekday Wear Linkup.


44 comments:

  1. What a wonderful day out. Ther cathedral was magnificent. I couldn't see any signs of squalor anywhere...

    I loved your outfit; the top was lovely and how ell the beads you chose went with it.

    I love how you always make sure you have plenty of refreshments on your day's out!

    Hope you have a great week.
    xxx

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    1. Thank you Vronni, I'm glad you enjoyed tagging along. And yes, plenty of refreshments are a must! xxx

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  2. Another lovely adventure! I am admiring your blowsy rose top that used to be a dress - I just bought a skirt with a similar rose pattern.

    The cathedral and the ruins both are amazing - such splendour, followed by a crumbling edifice. That chocolate dessert looks amazing, I'm surprised Jos hasn't finished it! Ha!

    Have a wonderful week, my dear!

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    1. You were right about that skirt! That dessert was heavenly, and not heavy at all. I could have finished Jos's too ;-) xxx

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  3. I wonder how that dress would have looked like! What a lovely day out. I akways find it so fascinating to imagine people lived, for example in that ruïne,there. So long ago. Amazing. The chocolate thing looks like sticky toffee pudding! Mmmmmmm

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    1. So do I, it must have been an amazing dress! The chocolate thing wasn't a bit like sticky toffee pudding, though. Delicious and very, very light! xxx

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  4. My husband spent a few days in St Omer last year during the WW1 centenary events. Your photos are gorgeous, The cathedral is spectacular! How utterly gorgeous! That organ especially interests me!
    You did well on your lunch. Salmon and all those vegetables! I always feel like I don't get enough vegetables in France usually! That Chocolate moulleaux is also extremely tempting!
    I love your outfit too- the trousers are very much my kind of thing! Great find.x

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    1. What a coincidence that CBC spent a few days in St. Omer. Did he like the town? We could have wandered for hours in that cathedral, and we're planning to return next year! xxx

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  5. Thank you for this great day out with you. So many stunning pictures. Perfect for the first coffee on this rainy monday morning :)
    I love your green raincoat ;)
    A very huge hug Tina

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    1. Thank you Tina, I'm glad to have provided the entertainment ;-) xxx

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  6. very picturesque!
    you made some gorgeous photos of big sights and small things - you really have an artists eye. and you looked like an artist in your palazzo pants, baroque printed blouse and cool green coat!
    those chocolate things.....mmmmhhh...
    :-D
    hugsies! xxxxx

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    1. Thank you so much, Beate :-) I'm always looking out for the small things, it's like my eyes automatically seek them out. xxx

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  7. Those floral pants are stunning and I love how you paired them with a printed blouse. The coat is lovely as well. This outfit is simply perfect on you. Great styling for sure. What a nice day to wear those pants for the fist time. It seems you had a great time despite the rainy weather. The cathedral looks so beautiful. I really like the insides as well. The paintings, the art, the history...it all looks magnificent.

    The tower of Jesuit chapel you saw earlier is lovely too. Too bad it was locked. I always tend to notice towers too.

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    1. That Petit Cafe looks very tempting!

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    2. Thank you Ivana. Luckily the Jesuit chapel was open in the afternoon so that we could admire its lofty interior! xxx

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  8. So many wonderful pictures. How amazing it must be to be able to just hop over the border and into France.

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    1. It is, isn't it? When we were in the area a couple of years ago, we cycled along a street with Belgium on one side of it and France of the other. Quite fascinating! xxx

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  9. Thankyou for letting us join you. How lovely to wake up to that beautiful view from your cottage. The town of St. Omer looks charming. What a transition between the opulence of St. Omer Cathedral to the ruins of St. Bertin Abbey. I too, love the juxtaposition of squalor and splendor. It's quite poetic. Your refreshments look delicious and that toile wallpaper in the cafe is just gorgeous. Did I read that right - you bought bad bread in France? I didn't think that was even possible! Your choice of outfit for the day was stupendous. That top must have been a spectacular dress once upon a time. I do have a weakness for floral. Your coat finished it off perfectly. Thankyou for the tour.

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    1. Thank you Suzy, and that's exactly what I love about it, as it's indeed quite poetic. I am a self professed nostalgic romantic, forever with my head in the clouds ;-)

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  10. That chocolate mousse cake has my name on it! Yum!

    You little jaunts of discovery are always a pleasure for the eyes.

    I cannot believe they take cards at the church! LOL

    Suzanne
    http://www.suzannecarillo.com

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    1. Too late, I'm afraid, it didn't take long to finish off these chocolate cakes ;-) I thought the card thing was quite funny! xxx

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  11. Looks like you dodged the worst of the rain by heading South, phew! What a charming place to visit. I like how your trousers look with the green jacket. Shame about the bread though. Xx

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    1. Thank you Sarah! There's something to be said for weather apps! xxx

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  12. I'm drooling over that chocolate dessert at the end, haha! I'm glad you had a good day out and the rain didn't ruin your plans! I do like your raincoat though! That cathedral is so beautiful, what a stunning place!

    Hope that your week is off to a great start :)

    Away From Blue

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  13. What a wonderful view to wake up to, almost as good as the one I see every morning (I’m so lucky).
    Do you know Ann I don’t think it’s entered my head that a dress could be turned into a blouse. I may have to take a close look at the potential in my wardrobe now.
    Pity about the bread and the weather but you do seem to have made the most of your day as always.
    Thanks for a lovely travelogue
    Lynn xxx

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    1. Yes, you are very lucky, my friend. We have to go on holiday to have a view like that! xxx

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  14. I've been to St. Omer, so it's somewhere I recognise and it was lovely to have a trip down memory lane.
    Your trousers look just perfect for the mixed weather you had.
    I love your afternoon tea à la française:) xxx

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    1. Oh have you Sally? Did you like the town? And there's certainly something to be said for tea à la française! xxx

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  15. Another charming day visiting a charming town in a style befitting a princess--Polyester Princess, that is!

    My eyes sort of stumbled when I read the Rubens painting was so unprotected and then I stumbled again when I saw that you had French bread that was unpalatable! Wow! That said, your day and foods overall seemed quite enjoyable.

    Hugs,
    Sherry

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    1. We couldn't get over that Rubens painting either. We went into a church in Bruges last week, where the most valuable paintings were behind safety glass, as it was an insurance requirement. Anything could happen to that painting! xxx

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  16. The cathedral must be breathtaking! Too bad you weren't able to wander through the ruins, but I guess you'd have to expect people to do dangerous things.

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    1. We are so used to being able to walk among ruins in the UK, that we were quite unprepared for the fact that here it wasn't possible. xxx

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  17. Gah! I'm sure we have the same sat-nav! You wouldn't believe the trouble (and arguments) we have on days out.
    I love that mix of grandeur and dilapidation - that's what fascinates me about Goan churches from the Inquisition (rather than any god stuff). How funny that you can buy a candle using a credit card - the miracles of modern life!
    The collage with the Optique sign is just gorgeous!!
    Those Shropshire trousers look a treat on you as does the mac!
    What did the sheep have for breakfast? xxx

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    1. I'm sure we must have, and I think we are having comparable arguments ;-) Glad you love that collage, it was my favourite too! xxx

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  18. That cathedral is absolutely amazing, Ann! I love those floral pants too! You do look great in everything,Ann! ;) XXX

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  19. Moelleux au Chocolat! my favourite dessert ever!! (mmm, I distract easily when chocolate is involved!)
    But there are so many fab pics to comment!. Love the fascinating landscapes and the grotte (so picturesque and also a little bit kitsch!). Love when deckchairs are displayed on a public garden and love those details you have picked in your collages, particularly the Optique sign!, I do love this kind of details! and cute windows!
    And loving your green raincoat and fab floral trousers!, totally cool!
    besos

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    1. Thank you Monica! I love a bit of kitsch :-) Glad you love the Optique sign collage, it was my favourite as well! xxx

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  20. That looks really lovely - I kind of like a little delapidation; as with the wear on vintage it shows something's real and has lived a bit. I've never seen a fleur-de-lis window in a cathedral before - nor a card machine for that matter!

    I'm amazed they let a baker that bad stay in France - you'd think he'd be run out of the country ;-)

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    1. Thank you Mim! In fact, it's already the second time we have a bad experience with a baker in that area. They can probably only do baguettes :-) xxx

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