Monday 26 November 2018

November in Zeeland

I'm the first to admit that November in Zeeland doesn't have quite the same ring to it as April in Paris, but believe me, the weather was balmy enough to rival, and indeed surpass, any April day's.

Here I am, still in my vintage St. Michaels dressing gown and pink slippers at 8.52 am (quite a luxury for me on a Thursday morning), having a wake-me-up cup of coffee, with the sun streaming in through the windows.



Our itinerary of the day was to drive down to the North Sea resorts on the northwest coast of the Walcheren peninsula. A scenic drive along quiet, tree-lined country roads, with fields as far as the eye can see stretching away on either side, the flat landscape dotted with grazing cows, neat little houses and picture postcard perfect windmills.

But then the omnipresent roadworks and confusing diversions put a spanner or two in the works!



Finally, we reached our first destination, Domburg, the oldest coastal town in Zeeland, where parking is plentiful and free out of season. I'm sure it would have been quite a different story in the Summer months!

Domburg has a long history as a beach resort as well as an artists’ colony.  Its healthy air and the luminosity of its skies have been drawing people here for many a year.




It was the Dutch physician and - rather confusingly - inventor of Swedish Massage, Dr. Johan Mezger (1838-1909), who first coined in on the town's  potential as a health spa.

Originally from Amsterdam, Dr. Mezger had a wide circle of rich and famous patients, who followed him to Domburg when he set up shop there.




In 1888, a small pavillion which had been built on top of the dunes was replaced by the extraordinary Badpaviljoen (Bath Pavillion), built in lavish neo-renaissance style. It has been a listed building since 1983, and now houses a restaurant as well as several exclusive private apartments.


Behind the sand dunes, there's a wide sandy beach which  extends all the way to the next coastal town, Westkapelle.


Around the turn of the century, artists started arriving in Domburg, drawn by its mythical light. Many spent their Summers in the town, producing paintings depicting Domburg and its surroundings, with a favourite subject being the beach with its long lines of wooden poles, acting as wave breakers, jutting into the sea.



One of the members of the artists' colony was Piet Mondriaan, who spent several Summers (and some Winters) in Domburg between 1908 and 1916.

His seascape, Beach with five piers at Domburg, dates from 1909, and is a view which is still recognizable today.




It was heaven strolling on the beach beneath the deep blue of the sky, breathing in the salty sea air.

That day, I accessorized my checked Winter coat with a mustard beret to contrast with the sky, as well as a burnt orange scarf, which looks almost red in the brilliant sunlight.

I'd swapped my ankle boots for long, comfortable, low heeled boots which made trudging through the sand a doddle.

Underneath my coat, a long-sleeved frock, in black with a crazy white, yellow, orange and red print (see here for a closer look), topped by a striped cardigan in the same colours.



It was well past midday by now, so we returned to the town's main street for lunch, which we had at By Juuls, a restaurant recommended by Jos's son.



After lunch, our plan was to take the coastal road out of Domburg towards Westkapelle, which would take us over a massive, 5 kilometres long seawall, where the Walcheren peninsula juts into the – sometimes – wild and windy North Sea.

Again, roadworks did their best to thwart our plan and when our satnav noticed that we didn't take the left turning she (yes, she's a she, called Marie Jeanne) intended us to take, she proposed an alternative route which would first lead us inland, and then back to the coast.


If we'd followed her instructions, we would have missed this picturesque lighthouse, which is why we wanted to take the coastal road in the first place, so we were very naughty and ignored her!


I've always loved lighthouses, especially those of the typical red and white striped variety, and ever since I saw Tina's post back in October, where she posed next to this one on the road to Westkapelle, I knew I wanted to do the same!

There are two lighthouses at Westkapelle, and this is the so-called Low Lighthouse (Noorderhoofd or 't Lage Licht), the smaller of the two, an iron, 16 meter high structure built in 1874, which sits along the sea dike to the north of the town.



If this is the Low Lighthouse, there must be a High Lighthouse as well, right? 

This one, a prominent landmark visible from far and wide, is further along in the village itself, and consists of a red structure dating from 1817 and placed upon a 50 meter high brick tower constructed in 1470 as a church tower.

We didn't stop to take its photograph, but if you're intrigued, you can have a look here.



On the landside of the seawall is the Noordervroon, a watery nature reserve which is home to many different species of birds. Although the nature reserve itself is not accessible, there's a magnificent view of it from the road running on top of the seawall.


Our final stop of the day was the popular seaside resort of Zoutelande, which is called the Riviera of Zeeland and was rated the best resort of the Netherlands in 2013.


Lovely though it is, wild horses couldn't drag us here in High Season, but on this glorious November day, we enjoyed the view of the virtually empty beach from a bench on the promenade.



Linking to Patti's Visible Monday at Not Dead Yet Style as usual.


32 comments:

  1. What with your last couple of posts and an ex-blogging pal's IG photos of Amsterdam, I'm seriously considering a trip there next year! I'm totally in love with that beachside pavillion, what fabulous architecture. I love how you match the lighthouse in your wonderfully vibrant red accessories!
    I'm relieved to see that we're syncromising our blogg posts again, I've been terribly out of the loop of late! xxx

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    1. Thank you Vix! I love Amsterdam, but it's been far too long since we've been there. Now wouldn't that be a lovely place for a blogger meet-up? xxx

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  2. I love your check coat with the mustard beret and orange scarf. Great photos!

    Emma xxx
    www.style-splash.com

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  3. I love your travelogues, Ann - even just looking at your beautiful photography feels restorative! And when I finally get to travel to your part of the world, I will definitely look up for your posts to make sure I visit all these places.

    I do remember the lighthouse from Tina's post, it is a stunner. I also have a soft spot for lighthouses. There are plenty around us, and I have a collection of watercolors depicting our historic local lights.

    You and Jos look lovely on your holiday! The Badpaviljoen is impressive!

    Lots of love!

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    1. Thank you Natalia! If you ever visit, then we'll be your guides! Wouldn't it be exciting to meet? xxx

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  4. What a gorgeous place, Ann! I love your photos: especially the lighthouse! Your outfit is fabulous. I love the print and colours of your dress and how you've accessorised. So pretty! Hope you have a great week, Ann! XXX

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  5. Wow, that is so incredibly beautiful! I love lighthouses (people don't live in them here anymore, sadly), and I love beaches. Sounds like a fun holiday!

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    1. Thank you Sheila! Living in a lighthouse is quite a romantic thought, isn't it? xxx

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  6. I love lighthouses, not that I ever see them living in land-locked Nebraska. It is easy to see why artists would want to stay in such a beautiful place.

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    1. I'd never been up close to a lighthouse, except when I was in Cornwall, when there was so much fog that I could hear its warning signals, but was unable to see it! xxx

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  7. Fabulous photos! Really makes me want to visit. XXX

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  8. What a wonderful post!, it makes me want to go there and watch all the landscapes, the fabulous pavillion and the red&White lighthouse! (I also love a typical lighthouse!)
    And you look particularly gorgeous in your cute coat and orange and mustard accessories (fav color combo). Your dress is stunning and so cute that the striped cardi is also matchy!
    Thanks for sharing some sunshine and seaside breeze!
    besos

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    1. Thank you Monica! It was such a gorgeous day that it was hard to believe it was November! xxx

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  9. a physician with the name "mezger" is a good joke in german - do you know what a "metzger" is??
    ;-DDD
    such a wonderful coastal landscape! and quiet in november!
    hugs! xxxxx

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    1. I had no idea what it meant but I looked it up of course. I'd stay clear of that doctor, that's fur sure ;-DDD xxx

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  10. Looks like another wonderful adventure. Those beaches are gorgeous. We have beaches here as we are on a great lake but it isn't the same as the ocean which I miss from when we lived in British Columbia.

    That mustard beret works with everything!

    Suzanne
    http://www.suzannecarillo.com

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    1. Thank you Suzanne, and I agree that mustard seems to work with everything. I love the beach, but the Belgian coastline isn't very exciting. Still, walking along the shore is still a delight, wherever you are. xxx

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  11. The romantic, picturesque scenes, together with those exuberant beach fronts and cheerful photo of you next to the lighthouse, make for a stunning post.
    You've definitely sold the place to me!! xxx

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    1. Thank you so much, Sally! So glad you loved my post. xxx

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  12. Ohhhhh so wonderful to see your stunning pictures. You know I am in love with Zeeland. Great you visit the lovely lighthouse :))
    Thank you so much for these pictures Ann. A very huge hug, Tina

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    1. No, thank YOU, Tina. I'd never been in the area, and it's thanks to you that we decided to visit. That lighthouse is really amazing, isn't it? xxx

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  13. You were very lucky with the weather I must say! I've so enjoyed your posts about Zeeland; I love the coast and this looks really lovely. The lighthouse is wonderful; I've always wanted to live in one...

    You look very warm and cosy in your plaid coat and I love the mustard beret and orange scarf with it.

    I'm wondering if your found any charity shops while you where there? You must have found one....

    Hope your week is going well!
    xxxxx

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    1. Living in a lighthouse is such a romantic thought, isn't it. It might be wild and lonely at times ... We only visited one charity shop which was a bit rubbish, but we did find a lovely vintage shop. More about this in a next post! xxx

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  14. Zeeland is so very pretty, although I have only been there twice! Never listen to bossy women, haha, we always take the coastel route in England too! You look stunning as always!

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    1. Thank you Nancy. The satnav has its uses, but sometimes it's better to ignore her and found your own way! xxx

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  15. How fortunate you were with the weather Ann, and no crowds of tourists either.
    Lovely lighthouse pics. I frequently ignore instructions from my sat nav! X

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    1. We were definitely fortunate with the weather. I was a bit worried about that. Sometimes, we just know our way around better that our satnavs do! xxx

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  16. Friend , I beg to differ. This is every bit as appealing as spring in Paris!
    The beautiful coastal town is so picturesque. I love the lighthouse photos and your gorgeous plaid coat!
    ❤️❤️❤️
    Elle
    https://theellediaries.com/

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    1. Thank you so much, Elle! I'm so pleased you loved my post. It really is a most beautiful area and, what's more, they have CBD oil ;-)) xxx

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