Monday 10 September 2018

These things take time

On Monday last week, we set out on our yearly sojourn to the Westhoek, the most westerly part of Belgium.

For seven years now, we have spent the first week of September in this area, which is sandwiched between the North Sea coast and the French borders.

This is the landscape where the battles of the Great War were once fought, its panoramic views and its gently rolling hills, silent witnesses.


Our journey coincided with the first day of school, so we set out after rush hour but, as it is only a two-hour drive, we still managed to arrive at our destination shortly after midday.



Our cottage, a studio apartment in a thatched wooden building, was as delightful as ever, and so was the unprecedented view from its little balcony. Still, all was not as it as it should have been.

When we waved goodbye to owner Johanna last year, little did we know that it would be for the last time. When we tried to contact her back in May to make arrangements, we were saddened to learn from her daughter that Johanna had passed away. She was only in her early 50s.


Even if we didn't know her all that well, as we only saw each other once a year, there was a certain connection: we kept in touch by email, and I know she sometimes read my blog.

The news had somewhat knocked us for six and, although we'd gotten used to the idea by now, her absence still cast a bit of a shadow on our holiday, especially when we were in the cottage and contemplating the landscape around it, where Johanna's presence seemed to be poignantly tangible.

The empty poles in the hop fields opposite the cottage were a case in point, as they managed to look even more barren than usual.


There were reminders even in the streets of nearby Poperinge, where a strange heaviness seemed to be lingering. 

For once, the square in front of the yellow bricked town hall was empty, and one of the gargoyles hiding in a corner of the stonework seemed to be playing a sad song for further emphasis. 


We always gravitate towards Poperinge on our first day, sampling the atmosphere of this deceptively quiet little town, and taking in the familiar sights like the Hop Museum (top left) and Talbot House (bottom left), which we visited back in 2016 and 2017.

Our visits usually end with a walk in Poperinge's enchanting Burggraaf Frimoutpark.

The park, covering 3 hectares, is the town's green lung, affording views of its skyline. Unfortunately, this view has been marred by one or two cranes for the past couple of years. Thankfully these can be photographically erased with some careful framing.



A new artwork has popped up, and no, it hasn't toppled over, this is the way it is meant to be.

The hollow, bronze sculpture, which is six metres long, is called "Shot at Dawn" and its creator, Anno Dijkstra, who was inspired by Poperinge's War Memorial in the Market Square, is issuing an invitation for reflection.

In his words: In my imagination I carefully tilt the monument. It is now lying on its back. The bottom of the pedestal has become a gigantic black hole. I can just about see the starting point of the soldier, the soles of his shoes, his legs. And then it gets really dark. Do I see his chest, his neck? Can I look inside his head? The darkness is impenetrable. The pedestal lying down looks like a funnel. Through the funnel the present slinks in: it brings some clarity to that darkness. Or is the funnel a horn through which the past tries to shout out something at us? An oracle? Do we hear the enthusiasm of the first weeks of the war, the homesickness, the pride, the doubt, the blood lust, the rattle of death, the cries of victory? Or do we mainly hear a rustle? The rustle of our own blood?


The park is named after Dirk Frimout who was born in Poperinge and who, in 1992, was the first Belgian in space. He is now an honorary citizen.


We walked the length of the park, with its many water features. This one is looking a bit like a miniature flying saucer, which has just landed in one of the ponds.


We are on the cusp of Autumn, a delightful juxtaposition of seasons. The beginning of the end of a never-ending process. A reminder, both of nature's fragility and strength, and the passing of time. 

These things, like all things, take time.


A black cat was about to cross our path. At first all we could see was its two pointy ears. Its interest piqued, it emerged from the grassy verge. But, keeping in mind that curiosity killed the cat and all that, it then  seemed to think it was better to be safe than to be sorry, with one backward glance slinking off the way it had come.


While admiring the imaginative planting near the main pond, we were accosted by a gaggle of ducks.

Jos magicked some biscuits from his inside pocket, which he proceeded to distribute among the gang, making him look like a kind of pied piper. Aren't they the most funny creatures? At one point, the most forward of the white ones were trying to eat Jos's shoe-laces. My favourite was the one with the punky hairdo on the bottom right.



We returned along a boardwalk leading us over the ponds and through a marshy area.


The statuesque figure of a blue heron was patiently waiting for its evening meal at the other side of the pond.


Here I am posing for one more photograph before returning to the town in search of our own evening meal.


We sat down outside on the terrace of Hotel de la Paix in the Market Square, sampling glasses of Palm Green, a deliciously punchy non-alcoholic beer, while waiting for our meal to arrive.


Then it was back to our cottage, where we watched the sun go down from our little balcony and retired to our comfortable bed for a good night's sleep.

Watch out for the continuation of my travelogue in my next post!

Meanwhile, I'm taking my travel outfit, including flying saucer, to Patti's Visible Monday at Not Dead Yet Style!

36 comments:

  1. There are people we don't know very well but thry are a presence in our lives. A shop assistant we talk to when purchade, or a barman we are used to meet every morning.
    All of a sudden they disappear and leave a missing in us...

    You described so perfectly the feeling.

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    1. I never realized how much Johanna touched my life until she was no longer there. Her passing away really hit me in the solar plexus! xxx

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  2. The photographs you have taken are beautiful and the writing that accompanies them is wistful. I felt sad reading this, and I imagine it must have really affected you to visit again. I hope that you are enjoying the break in the beautiful place you are staying. xxx

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    1. Thank you Sally, it was a wonderful break in spite of the initial sadness ... xxx

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  3. I am not sure if you received my earlier comment. But I want to make sure that this gets through. I really love to see those photos of such a picture ask part of Belgium.
    but I am very sad to hear about the loss of your friend’s daughter. I can certainly imagine the heaviness that it would add to an otherwise lovely trip.
    The photos were such fun to see. I was particularly impressed with the photo of the sculpture and the fresh radishes. I hope you’re well my friend !
    ❤️❤️❤️
    Elle
    https://theellediaries.com/

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    1. I did not get your earlier comment, Elle, it must have disappeared into the blogosphere ;-) Thank you for making the effort to do it again! We really love that part of the world ... xxx

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  4. Those unexpected losses can seem the hardest at times. Early 50s is too early! I liked how little things on your trip echoed that emptiness, and the sculptor's description of his art is so poignant.

    Lovely pictures as always (I have a fondness for mallard ducks). Happy week to you!

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    1. Glad to oblige with the mallard ducks. Will think of you now when I see them! I'm still trying to get my head around the fact that Johanna is no longer there. It feels quite unreal! xxx

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  5. Wow, that is very sad indeed. A wake up call once again to remember that every day is a gift.

    I really enjoyed that sculpture and the accompanying text. How very appropriate for the mood.

    Suzanne
    http://www.suzannecarillo.com

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    1. You are right, Suzanne, and that's what we keep telling each other: we should indeed treat every day as a gift! xxx

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  6. Thank you for this wonderful pics and this nice trip with you. So sad to hear your story of Johanna, the cottages owner. So early, in her 50s :(
    Enjoy every day Ann.
    so cute this ducks :)
    I wish you a great week, a huge hug Tina

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  7. the early passing of johanna is very sad - totally understand you....
    you brought back some wonderful photos and thanks for the artists text to the sculpture. love your bright colored outfit - the skirt has a stunning pattern! and jos looks very colorful too - gorgeous. he has a hang with the poultry - isn´t it? ;-D
    hugest of hugs! xxxxxxx

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    1. Thank you Beate, and the last part of your comment made me chuckle: Jos indeed has a way with poultry, they certainly seem to like him ;-) xxx

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  8. That is very sad news about Johanna. It is always so jarring to learn of someone's passing, especially at such a young age. Life really is precious, isn't it? Gorgeous photos, Ann! I love your owl brooch. Ducks are indeed such funny creatures! It's taken me a long time not to be terrified of them, as when I was about four or five I was feeding them and soon an army of ducks appeared and surrounded me! I remember running away screaming as they chased me through the park!! ;) Hope you have a great week, Ann. XXX

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    1. Thank you Sasha! And oh, I had the same thing when I was little, but with chickens rather than ducks! xxx

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  9. I'm sorry to hear that there was a tinge of sadness to your trip. Hopefully you will recall happy memories too, and make new ones.

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    1. Glad to be able to say that the happy memories triumphed over the sad ones in the end, Mim xxx

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  10. I'm sorry to hear about this sad news, it's always hard to manage these unexpected losses, even when they're not close friends. I understand that there was a certain shadow on your holidays. Wish you could keep on enjoying every moment, creating new happy memories and embracing life!. Those beautiful landscapes, the cute animals, the quiet atmosphere are fab. And I love your comfy shoes and colorful outfit with the floral skirt and green top!
    besos

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    1. Thank you Monica! If there's one lesson Johanna's death has taught me, it's to enjoy every moment! xxx

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  11. I am sorry for your loss. I hope that it doesn't cast too much of a shadow on your break. Lovely photos as always, and I can see why you like to go to that part of your country! The statue on its side is really interesting - very thoughtful. X

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    1. Thank you Linda! We did enjoy our break, regardless of the slight shadow hanging over it. xxx

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  12. It's strange how someone who wasn't a huge presence in your life can still leave you with a sense of loss. Loss is so sad, especially when it's too soon. I think it's lovely that she touched your lives enough to leave a mark. I think the one thing we all want is to be remembered fondly. I think she'd smile if she could read this post.
    The cottage looks lovely, I hope you enjoyed your trip and continue to return.
    xx

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    1. I'd love to think Johanna would smile if she could read this post. That's a lovely thought! xxx

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  13. 50 is indeed too young to go. HazelxJoy has made a good point about wanting to be remembered fondly, and this is such a lovely post.

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    1. Johanna really managed to be remembered fondly, and I had to write this post before I could go on with things ... xxx

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  14. PS
    You won my drawing. Drop me an email with your address so I can send it off to you.

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  15. That's so sad about Johanna, I'm not surprised her untimely death cast a bit of a shadow over your holiday.
    You and Jos both look fabulous and the cottage is just lovely. Gorgeous scenery and hints of rapidly approaching Autumn, too.
    That non-alcoholic beer looks lovely! xxx

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    1. It felt a bit strange being in the cottage knowing Johanna wasn't there next door ... I'm quite pleased with the amount of lovely non-alcoholic beers lately. We have discovered another great one, made in Bruges. xxx

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  16. So sorry to hear about your friend. It must have been a very weird feeling to be where she usually was and her not being there.

    I loved your outfit; very autumnal to match the weather. The brooch was exquisite.

    I like the look of Poperinge and I liked the look of the non alcoholic beer!

    Hope your week is going well.
    xxx

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    1. I must say that it was indeed very weird. Last year, she texted us every morning to wish us a good day. It's mind boggling to think that only a short few weeks later, she would pass away. xxx

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  17. What sad news about your friend. Much too young and a reminder to make every minute count. Your photographs are beautiful as always.Love your bright floral skirt and polka dot top. And, I notice you've got a cute owl pin too. Mine is my first and I don't think I'll ever part with it!

    Theresa

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    1. Thank you Theresa. The owl pin is modern, would you believe it? I've got several from that range. Yours is exquisite! xxx

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  18. Happy Birthday, my dear Ann!!
    Beautiful travelog, with gorgeous pictures and stories, filled with your memories and new discoveries, and colored by this sudden sadness... It's so hard to deal with losses, even if we didn't know the people very well. Only time will heal it, time and also the beauty and the spirit of this place, which now will forever contain the name of Johanna.

    I adore your happy polka dot and floral outfit, and your walks are so restorative to the soul - even just looking and reading about them!

    Much love, my dear!

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    1. Thank you Natalia! Glad you enjoyed joining me on my walk. The polka dot blouse and floral skirt was indeed a happy, and quite unexpected, marriage! xxx

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