Saturday 23 November 2019

A leaf kicking kind of day

I confess that we only had the vaguest of plans for our Zeeland break, opting to let our moods and the weather - that often pesky spoilsport - be the deciding factor on how to spend our days.

Monday evening saw a return of the rain, which continued overnight, at one point turning into a clattering of hailstones, with rumblings of thunder in the far distance. And all this accompanied by a stormy wind - always a presence to be reckoned with in these parts - which was making windows and roof-tiles rattle.

It was a bit disheartening waking up to the pitter-patter of raindrops on Tuesday morning, but by the time we'd dragged ourselves downstairs and were having a breakfast consisting of bread and omelettes washed down by copious cups of coffee, the sun had decided to grace us with her presence after all.



We wasted no time in starting our next adventure, retracing Monday's steps back to the town centre and making a beeline for the Lange Jan tower. The tower belongs to a large abbey complex established around 1100 by Flemish monks, the abbot becoming the most powerful and influential person in Zeeland. That is, until the monks were forced to leave after the conquest of the city by the Prince of Orange in 1574. The complex now functions as the seat of government of the Province of Zeeland and also houses a museum.



In Summer, you can climb the 207 steps up to the top of the Lange Jan for a spectacular view over the town and the entire Walcheren peninsula, on which the town is situated.

But what had made us come back here in particular were the three adjacent, interconnected churches which are also part of the complex, and which we had to skip last year due to lack of time.




So, imagine our disappointment when we found our entry barred as new floor tiles were being laid in the entrance hall. The man on the job didn't really have a clue but supposed there was another entrance at the back, so we traipsed all around the abbey complex, trying every door we came across, but finding them all firmly locked.




Then, walking into the large abbey courtyard, I was totally transfixed by the thick carpet of Autumn leaves in its centre. All thoughts of looking for a way into the churches vanished from my mind, as I couldn't wait to indulge in some long awaited and longed-for leaf kicking!

I've added some close-ups of my vintage coat, a lucky charity shop find a couple of years ago.




After making some inquiries, a helpful man directed us to an ancient red door which creaked open to give access to some atmospheric cloister passageways complete with intricately carved ceilings.

Opening a side door revealed a tiny courtyard herb garden, which unfortunately wasn't looking its best courtesy of the season and the deadly box tree moth which had clearly been decimating the hedges.



And although there were doors supposedly leading to the churches, they turned out to be all locked as well, so that we had to give up and turn heel.

It was nearly lunchtime by then, so we walked back into the direction of the town centre, passing the St. Jorisdoelen building, originally built in 1582 but rebuilt in 1969-70 after being largely destroyed during World War II.




Note the pink hued water in the fountain in front of it, to raise awareness for breast cancer. We thought it looked rather sinister, and were debating whether a mangled body might have been dumped into the fountain, but perhaps we've been watching too many crime series! Middelburg murders?

We had a light lunch in the café of a well-known Dutch department store and were dismayed to find the streets wet upon leaving the building. How fickle the weather is as it had only been about 45 minutes since I'd photographed that bright blue cloudless sky!


It started drizzling again and we ducked into a shop doorway to consult Jos's weather app, which said it was just a blip and it would stop raining soon. 

Not worth the hassle of opening our umbrellas for, we initially thought, but as the downpour increased in heaviness, Jos eventually opened his, if only to allow me to take photographs during our wander, which took us into the direction of the Dam square and the rabbit warren of streets beyond.

After a stop-start game, the rainclouds finally decided they had pestered us for long enough and departed elsewhere.



We'd arrived at the Oostkerk (East Church), a monumental octagonal cupola church, built in the baroque style around 1667. After 350 years of being a protestant church, it is now being used for concerts, lectures and exhibitions. Again, we found its door firmly locked, but I've since read that this was simply a case of bad timing, as supposedly all churches and other historical buildings are only open at certain times until November!


I'd downloaded a map of a walk on my phone, but its instructions weren't always clear, as by this time we'd lost our way on more than one occasion. Well, that's how it usually is with us! So, we decided to just wander and see where our feet would take us, while our eyes feasted on the glorious - and sometimes funny - architectural and other details. 


Our feet finally took us back to the Dam Square, which ends in a small park, beyond which stretches out the old port area.

As you can see, blue skies reigned again, the fluffy white clouds having chased away the last of their dark grey cousins.



So, in spite of our weary feet and Jos's aching back, we wanted to make the most of the change in the weather by making a little detour to one of  Middelburg's best kept secrets: the Kuiperspoort.


This picturesque cobbled courtyard, with its 17th century gabled warehouses formerly belonging to the Coopers' Guild - now turned into undoubtedly desirable residences - is entered through a wooden gate leading off the Dam square, with a second entrance on the windy quayside around the corner.



Stands the clock at ten past three, to misquote Rupert Brooke's poem, we ambled back towards the town centre, not for tea with honey, but for our customary cappuccinos and a shared piece of delicious cheesecake.

Jos insisted I took a photograph of the interior of Jamin, a famous Dutch sweets shop. The coloured stripes you can see on the bottom left are huge tubes filled with different coloured candy. Just looking at them is giving me toothache!


Our energy levels - albeit temporarily - restored, we took the long way home by walking a short stretch along the town's ramparts, which have been turned into a delightful 4 kilometer long park.

While Jos sat down on one of the park's benches to spare his back, I went to explore the nearby Seismolen (molen is Dutch for mill), a former corn mill dating from 1728 and one of the oldest still existing windmills in Middelburg.


Two cormorants sat drying their wings and digesting their meals, and we sat watching these gangly, almost pre-historic looking birds, until one of them took flight.

Taking this as a sign that it was time to head home as well, we crossed the bridge leading over the canal, enjoying the relative warmth of the late afternoon sun on our backs and rejoicing in the glorious golden glow of Autumn.



She stands
 In tattered gold
 Tossing bits of amber 
And jade, jewels of a year grown old: 
November. 

~Zephyr Ware Tarver (1886)


36 comments:

  1. In spite of the starts and stops and doors all locked, your adventure seemed full and satisfying. I mean, how could it not be with all those leaves to kick! What beautiful photos, exactly capturing Zephyr Ware Tarver's words along the way.

    Hugs,
    Sherry

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sherry, I knew you'd understand :-) xxx

      Delete
  2. Danny would have absolutely lost his mind in that sweet shop! There's something wonderful about kicking around in piles of leaves. Glad the weather finally let you enjoy some time out of doors.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That sweet shop did look rather spectacular, but eating candy seems to trigger hot flushes for me, so I'm steering well clear ;-) xxx

      Delete
  3. Aahh, what a lovely time you've had. I've enjoyed looking at your travel photos and I'm glad you finally got to do some leaf kicking. X

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Jess! Of course, it wouldn't have done to let Autumn pass without any leaf kicking! xxx

      Delete
  4. A lovely little travelogue! I love your little photo montages. It looks like a very interesting town.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Ha ha, yes and dif you see Father Brown also? Lol. I can't resist Jamin btw. I don't know Zeeland that well, so this was a nice history class! Thanks, enjoy your Sunday.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ha ha, no, didn't see him. Probably busy solving the mysterious fountain murder ;-) xxx

      Delete
  6. What a perfect poem to finish this post.

    I'm glad you were still able to get out and enjoy the day.

    Suzanne
    http://www.suzannecarillo.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Suzanne, I though the poem was rather fitting! xxx

      Delete
  7. Always enjoy your travel photos. All the magnificent architecture and landscapes. Those cloister passageways are spectacular, as is your vintage herringbone check coat!

    ReplyDelete
  8. You look so sweet while kicking leaves in that ancient yard!
    As always, i love your photos of the towns details - interesting and fun. If we ever get more mobile we have to visit middleburg as well......
    xxxxxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Beate, and if you ever do, we'll be happy to join you for a day! xxx

      Delete
  9. That leaf kicking looks like so much fun, Ann! ;) Such stunning scenery and architecture in your fabulous photos! That last photo is especially striking. I love your vintage coat too! Hope you had a great weekend and have a wonderful week ahead, Ann! XXX

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sasha! Leaf kicking and glorious Autumn foliage is what Autumn is all about for me! xxx

      Delete
  10. Well, the abbey may have been shut but your sneak peep at the cloisters and beautiful knot garden must have been some compensation.
    Did Jos cook those delicious looking omelettes?
    Your coat looks lovely, chic and snuggly and I'm glad you achieved your wish to leaf kick - you are very welcome to play in our garden and the never ending carpet.
    Jon would go wild in that sweet shop! xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. How did you guess Jos cooked the omelettes? I had no idea Jon had such a sweet tooth. Eating candy triggers hot flushes, so I'm not going near it. xxx

      Delete
  11. The buildings are wonderful! Shame about the the locked churches but it seems it was worth it in the end. It does look like a very interesting place.

    Loved your coat and you kicking your way through the leaves...

    That sweet shop was something else!

    Have a great week.
    xxxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh well, we'll have a reason to return in a different season, won't we? xxx

      Delete
  12. Oh, such glorious pictures, Ann! I'm just agog at the wonderful architecture in your part of the world.

    I also love to kick leaves! I love the shots of you in that beautiful vintage coat, giving the leaves your best shots!

    Have a wonderful week!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sheila, and yes, I think we might be rather spoiled here. And I did have to make the most of those leaves, didn't I? xxx

      Delete
  13. Thankyou for this travelogue. So glad the sunshine finally came out for you. The town and buildings all look amazing. How frustrating to want to explore the abbey only to find it all locked up! Maybe it's a sign you need to return again.

    Nevermind the candy store, it's the magic of leaf kicking that's all the fun! You look like a little kid in your element. Love your magnificent coat too.

    Autumn casting it's golden glow over everything is quite enchanting. The windmill looks like it just come out of a fairytale.

    Have a great week, Ann.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's my pleasure, Suzy! And yes, it is a sign that we need to return again, in a different season. Well, as it's only an hour up the road, we can easily go there on a day trip some time! I was feeling like a kid in my element kicking those leaves. I'd been wanting to do that since October, and this was the perfect opportunity! xxx

      Delete
  14. I now recognise that beautiful poem!
    You weren't lucky with those churches but my you took some fabulous photos. The colours are beautiful.
    I love leaf kicking too and Ziggy is quite used to me walking along with him kicking through the leaves. The coat you're wearing in that photo is perfect for the occasion. xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Sally, it's such a poignant poem, isn't it? I can just about imagine you and Ziggy walking through the leaves :-) xxx

      Delete
  15. It looks so fun kicking around in the leaves! It's a shame we don't get that here for Brisbane's autumn! it's nice you got to see a lot even if you couldn't get in like you'd planned!

    Hope that your week is going well :)

    Away From Blue

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a real shame indeed. I love Autumn and I don't think I could live anywhere without proper Autumns! xxx

      Delete
  16. lovely to see another post on your adventures!
    Sorry that you couldn't visit those churches, the cloister looks amazing! and your pics kicking leaves are so adorable!. Love to see more architectural details, that Kuiperspoort looks gorgeous and the mill and landscapes are something delightful and picturesque!.
    I've been taking pics of storks and cranes too!
    besos

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Monica, I do love catching all these architectural and other details. And I've seen your photos of those storks, they are magnificent birds, aren't they?

      Delete
  17. I love your plaid coat. Those photographs of you among the fallen leaves are so lovely. It seems you had a fun time in Zeeland. What do you think, was New Zealand named after this region? It just occurred to me. I know there were a lot of Dutch travellers in the past and many migrated to USA.

    That baroque protestant church is so beautiful. It is a shame that it wasn't open nor the others. Sometimes it is just bad timing as you say, it happens with historical churches, they are rarely open for long... but at least you managed to see these historical churches from outside.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Ivana, and you are spot on, as New Zealand was indeed named after Zeeland! xxx

      Delete
  18. Your omelettes look delicious, mine never look like that!
    What's that saying? Not all who wander are lost. Sometimes it's nice to see where your feet will take you, you get to see some hidden gems that way.
    You certainly like to pack a lot into your days - which is exactly how holidays should be!
    xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have to admit that the omelettes were Jos's ;-) We might pack a lot into our days, but we're usually taking it easy in the evenings! xxx

      Delete