Bruges wasn't built in a day

After a fitful night's sleep and another one of Veronique's seriously sustaining breakfasts, we were ready to embark on our next adventure.

It was the 4th of February, and the day of our Anniversary, but also our last full day at the B&B, as we would be travelling back home the next day.

The temperature had taken a dive, and at only about 5° Celsius, I needed to dress appropriately for a day of being out and about. Enter this dress, which combines the funkiest of prints with a polyester knit fabric warm enough to withstand the chilly wind which had reared its head overnight.

My legs were kept snuggly by my thick orange opaques and the insulating layer of wool inside my chocolate brown boots helped to keep my calves and feet warm as well.

You've seen all my accessories, from the tan leather belt to the ring and beaded necklace, before. That particular necklace is fast becoming a firm favourite, as I seem to be wearing it all the time.

I wore a cardigan on top, obviously, but we didn't take any outfit pictures beyond these, so that I can not even show you my outerwear, starring my beloved Princess coat.

Rain had been forecasted for the afternoon, and on top of that, an icy, eye-stinging wind was greeting us when we emerged from the car park, so that we shelved any outdoor plans for the day.

Making our way to the Burg, we thought it was about time we explored the inside of the splendid buildings lining this square, and which had stopped us in our tracks each time we passed through.

Tucked away in a corner of the square is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, its dark Gothic façade richly decorated with gilded statuettes.

The basilica's flamboyant façade is actually a 16th century staircase which connects two chapels: the lower St. Basil Chapel and the upper Holy Blood Chapel, in which the relic of the holy blood is preserved. But more about that later.

The two chapels could not be more different: the Romanesque lower chapel, dating from the first half of the twelfth century, is austere with very little decoration (above), while the Gothic upper chapel is alive with colour and detail. 

The upper chapel was originally Romanesque as well, but was rebuilt during the 16th century as well as renovated multiple times during the 19th century in Neo-Gothic style.

It is lit by stained glass windows and covered with murals depicting the relic's journey to Bruges, but as these were being restored and thus covered in scaffolding, I had to resort to the almighty Internet for the photo on the top left of the below collage, as well as the one of the priest holding the relic on the bottom right.

The Holy Blood relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial, which is placed inside a small glass cylinder capped with a golden crown at each end. The vial allegedly contains cloth stained with the actual blood of Christ.  Legend has it that following the Crucifixion, Joseph of Arimathea wiped blood from the body of Christ and the cloth was preserved. It was then brought back by Thierry of Alsace, Count of Flanders, in the 12th Century.

The chapel is open daily to visitors who wish to view the relic, and there are services for the veneration of the Holy Blood throughout the day, at the end of which the congregation are invited to file past the altar, look at the relic and touch it. This procession seemed to be going on while we were there, but we didn't feel the need to join in, so we turned heel and left.

Next door to the basilica is Bruges' City Hall, which was completed in 1421, one of the oldest in the Low Countries. The façade is richly decorated with Gothic windows, towers, statues and the coat of arms of subordinate towns. 

Inside, a ceremonial staircase leads from the entrance hall to the first floor, where you can visit the lavishly decorated Gothic Hall.

The impressive double vaulted timber ceiling is absolutely stunning, as are the walls, which are painted with scenes relating the history of the city. 

The medallions in the bosses show New Testament scenes, prophets, evangelists and saints, while the decoration of the corbels supporting the roof reflect natural and seasonal themes.

But don't be deceived as the so-called Gothic Hall actually isn't Gothic at all, but Neo-Gothic. After a fire turned the interior largely to rubble, it had to be refurbished, a project which started in 1890 and was finished in 1905. 

Included in the entry fee for the hall is a visit to next door's mansion, known as the Liberty of Bruges, from which the countryside in a wide area around the city was once governed. The building functioned as a court of justice between 1795 and 1984 and today houses the City Archives.

The gold-trimmed building is a real eye-catcher, with several gilded statues sparkling on its roof.

But its real jewel lies inside, in the Liberty's former court room, which has been restored to its original 16th-century condition.

It has a monumental timber, marble and alabaster fireplace dating from 1528, a tribute to Emperor Charles V (1500-1558), who visited Bruges in 1515.

Impressive though it was, I mostly had eyes for the enchanting wall paintings lining the room below the dado rail.

Our heads were reeling from all that splendour by now, so that lunch provided a more than welcome break.

The weather had turned even colder by the time we left the restaurant, and rain clouds seemed to be gathering, but our next destination, the Gruuthusemuseum, was thankfully only a short walk away.

The museum, which has recently re-opened after five years of extensive renovations, is situated behind the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady) which dominates the city's skyline.

The impressive city mansion the museum is housed in belonged to one of the richest families of the medieval city, the Gruuthuse family, who made their fortune with peeled barley or wheat, the main ingredient for beer-brewing in the Middle Ages. 

Originally built in 1425, it was later expanded under Lodewick van Gruuthuse, a high-ranking official at the Burgundian court and one of the richest men in Bruges. In the late 19th century, the centuries-old landmark was thoroughly restored, again in Neo-Gothic style, by city architect Louis Delacenserie. 

With its intricate stonework, decorative roof gables and belvedere tower, the museum is one of the most beautiful sites in Bruges.

On this quiet February day there was no need to queue for tickets, but I'm sure it would have been quite a different story at any other time of year. 

In fact, we were able to roam the museum's succession of rooms, laid out over three floors, at ease, and often had a room completely to ourselves. 

Our journey took us through three crucial periods in the rich history of Bruges, from the time of its Burgundian heyday, followed by the lesser known 17th and 18th centuries, to the historical reinvention of Bruges in the 19th century Neo-Gothic style that is so typical of the city today.

These three periods are brought to life with more than 600 exhibits, including tapestries, unique Gothic stained glass, elegant wooden sculptures, historical lace, paintings, Burgundian manuscripts, exquisite pieces of furniture, silver and porcelain.

During our explorations, we looked out for, and found, Bruges' smallest Gothic window, (above, top right) which can be spotted outside when looking up from the picturesque Bonifacius bridge in the courtyard behind the museum. The stained glass, however, was found to be in a bad state of repair and had to be replaced during the recent renovations.

At one point we came across a small side room, where a row of  wigs were displayed on an ornate mantelpiece, with an invitation to try them on if you wished to. This was obviously meant for visiting children, but - also obviously - there was no way I wasn't going to oblige!

The room also contained a contraption which offered silhouette portrait opportunities.

The museum's absolute highlight is probably the authentic late 15th century oratory on the first floor, which connects the mansion with the Church of Our Lady, and which offers a view of the Gothic chancel of the church. This prayer chapel gave the Lords of Gruuthuse direct access to the church, illuminating the privilege and power of the mansion's medieval occupants. 

On the top right you can see a view of the oratory's windows taken from inside the church.

There is access to a loggia on the third floor, an extension with a balcony added in the 19th century, with a splendid bird's eye view over Bruges, and the courtyard with the tiny Bonifacius bridge in particular. This would be inundated with tourists at any other time of year, but was now surprisingly - or not so surprisingly given the inclement weather - empty.

After admiring the treasures displayed in the third floor rooms, we made our way back downstairs to retrieve our stuff from the lockers. Then we ventured outside and around the corner for a visit to the Church of Our Lady, entrance to which was included in the museum ticket price.

But we'd had enough of sightseeing by then, so we dutifully dragged ourselves around the church, barely noticing the wealth of art treasures and the 15th and 16th century tombs of Mary of Burgundy and Charles the Bold.

Dodging the rain, which was falling steadily by now, we walked back to the car park, but not before treating ourselves to cappuccinos and apple and pears crumble in a cozy café.

So, that was it. Another travelogue finished. But do not despair as we've already got another little holiday up our sleeves. For this, however, you will have to wait until April!

A medieval marvel

It was the morning of our first full day in Beernem near Bruges, and we were about to have breakfast at our lovely B&B. Oh dear, that's rather a lot of B's in one sentence, isn't it?

But before our host, Veronique, arrived bearing fresh fruit juice and coffee, we took a couple of minutes to take some outfit photos, as I was desperate to show you one of my latest Think Twice finds.

For once, I didn't wait for the next of their famous sales to roll along. Still, it may come as a surprise that I didn't buy the dress the first time I clapped eyes on it. I took it from the rail, noting its utter perfectness, then thought of all the long-sleeved dresses which were still waiting in the wings of my wardrobe for their turn to be worn. So I put it back and left the shop empty handed.

But once back at the office, my thoughts kept returning to that perfect harmony of navy and white houndstooth and plain navy collar, placket and pocket tabs, the latter two accented by pearly white buttons. A true classic, both in colour and in style.

Nevertheless, I didn't return to the shop until the next week when, much to my surprise, I found the dress still waiting for me. It must have been fate so, needless to say, this time I made sure not to leave the shop without it.

Who doesn't love a blue, white and red outfit? I certainly do, so accessorizing the dress was a doddle. I added red opaques, a red and white beaded necklace and a red plastic ring. More red appeared in some of the flowers on my carved wooden brooch. 

Finally, my red King Louie cardigan completed my outfit.

So, breakfast! We were certainly spoiled for choice. Starting with fresh fruit salad and yummy, creamy yogurt, we then indulged in freshly baked bread and a choice of rolls, accompanied by smoked salmon, a selection of cheeses and meats and, of course, Veronique's delicious home made jams, which came in tiny glass jars.

For those with a sweet tooth, there were croissants and chocolate buns, and there were a range of cereals to choose from if one was so inclined. 

In fact, there was such a glut of delicacies, that we had to decline Veronique's offer of boiled, fried or scrambled eggs.

After breakfast, it was time to start the day's adventure, so we instructed Marie-Jeanne, our long-suffering satnav, to take us to Bruges by way of her much-loved country lanes. Needless to say, she was happy enough to oblige!

After parking our car, we decided to walk into the direction of the main square, avoiding the shortest route which would take us along Bruges' main shopping street. Our route took us along a parallel street, which seemed to be home to the town's more exclusive shops. However, we soon veered off, arriving in a peaceful, small tree-lined square where modern and ancient architecture seemed to be living happily side by side.

The equestrian statue is called Flandria Nostra - the horse-riding lady is said to represent Mary of Burgundy (1457-1482) - and was designed by sculptor Jules Lagae in 1901. 

From the square, a narrow street lead down to a canal, the Speelmansrei, which was crossed by a humpbacked stone bridge guarded by a pair of haughty lions.

As crossing the canal would have taken us too far from our intended destination, we retraced our steps and meandered through a maze of streets, taking in the abundant and often quirky architectural details until we spotted the tower of  the St. Jacobskerk (St. James Church). Having already visited the church itself on a previous visit, we skirted this until we arrived at the eponymous St. Jacobsstraat (St. James Street). 

At the end of this street, the market square, where we planned to have lunch, beckoned, but we met with one or two distractions, the first one being Think Twice, whose Bruges shop is about half-way down this street. 

It almost goes without saying that the shop couldn't be passed without going in for a little browse. And yes, I might even have made a purchase, which I'll be showing you later in this post.

By then it was noon and a faint rumble in our stomachs told us it was time for lunch.

Afterwards, we crossed the market square and made our way along a pedestrianized street lined with the inevitable tourist trap shops selling waffles, chocolates and all manner of lace, towards the Burg, undoubtedly Bruges' most impressive square.

Even the road works obstructing one side of the square couldn't detract from the splendour offered by the Brugse Vrije (Liberty of Bruges), the City Hall and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. 

As I've already blogged about these on a previous visit, I just snapped some of the details which caught my eye and made them into a collage.

We briefly entered the town hall, where I sat down beneath one of the huge portraits in the picture gallery which can be visited free of charge.

Then, with one backward glance towards the Belfry tower, we continued on our way to our ultimate destination for the day.

We strolled along the cobbled Groenerei (Green Quay), marvelling at the view, at this time of year unobstructed by the exuberant foliage of the trees and the throngs of people taking their turn at being photographed on the one of the bridges crossing this most picturesque of canals.

At the end of the canal, we emerged onto a busy street, which we needed to cross. Here, there was another distraction in the form of a second-hand clothing shop where I confess to having made another purchase.

Consulting our map to make sure we were on the right track, we rounded a corner and found ourselves in a quiet, back-of-beyond street, where time seemed to have come to a halt.

On and on we walked, with side turnings offering a glimpse of a wide canal running parallel to the street we were walking on.

Then, after a bend in the street, we could finally spot the eye-catching tower of the Jerusalem Chapel. Modelled after Jerusalem's Holy Sepulchre, it is topped by the cross of Jerusalem, in its turn placed on top of a sphere representing the world.

The chapel is part of  the Adornes domain, an authentic medieval estate comprising a mansion and almshouses, where you can step into the world of one of the most prominent families of 15th Century Bruges. 

The Adornes family originates from the Italian city of Genoa, but came to Flanders in the 13th Century. 

Its best-known descendant is Anselm Adornes, who became an influential businessman, diplomat and knight in the 15th Century, when the estate was built. The chapel was consecrated in 1429

Anselm Adornes and his wife, Margareta van der Banck, are buried in the black marble tomb in the chapel, although in the case of Anselm Adornes, it is supposedly only his heart which is enshrined here, as these are the only remains that were able to be returned to Bruges after he was murdered in Scotland in 1483.

The architecture and layout of the chapel and its extraordinary relics are illustrations of the great reverence of the Adornes family for Jerusalem. 

It is, in fact, quite a macabre monument, with a gruesome altarpiece covered in skull motifs, as well as a rather creepy effigy of Christ’s corpse tucked away inside a miniature, low-ceilinged chapel at the rear.

The estate is still owned by the family today, which makes it quite exceptional. 

The family has always been very hospitable and the current descendants, who opened the domain to the public, are delighted to continue this tradition.

You can have coffee or tea and cakes in the so-called Scottish Lounge, a cosy room where you can rest your wary feet and reflect on your visit. Payment of any refreshments is by way of an honesty box.

It was well after 3 pm when we were finally able to tear ourselves away from those comfortable chesterfields, by which time a blanket of grey had done away with the blue skies which had accompanied us earlier that day.

Without the sun to aid their reflection, the monumental merchants' houses lining the Hansa Quarter's wide canals, seemed to be gazing out forlornly at their counterparts across the steel grey water.

It started raining lightly, and as we'd rather optimistically set out without our umbrellas, we thought it was time to call it a day. But not before ducking into a shop on our way back to the car park to purchase some prepared sandwiches for our evening meal, which we would have at our B&B.

Again, our way home was a lengthy one, courtesy of our satnav. Although we'd given her clear instructions before leaving the car park, the lack of satellite reception underground seemed to completely confuse her when we surfaced. Enough said!

I'm ending this post by showing you my purchases as promised. The Swiss made maxi skirt came from Think Twice, while the second hand shop we passed along the way to the Jerusalem chapel provided the salmon pink cardigan. I'd already taken off my make-up and Jos omitted to tell me that my hair was sticking up, so just look at the clothes please!

Love and devotion

As I'm typing these words, it dawns on me that only a mere week ago we were at the start of our latest little adventure.

We'd booked three nights at our favourite B&B, in a quiet backwater about half an hour from Bruges, to celebrate our Silver Wedding Anniversary, which was on the 4th of February. In the empty void between Christmas and the first signs of Spring, we were actually in desperate need of a break, so it couldn't have come at a better time.

I had been feeling more than just a little out of sorts during the week leading up to our trip, and by the time the weekend rolled along I was tired to the bone and craving sleep. Lots of it. The eternal grey weather didn't help to improve my energy levels either, so that packing was a bit of a chore. It kept raining on and off on Saturday, and as the weather forecast for the next couple of days seemed to be changing every time we looked, deciding which clothes to pack was even more of a nightmare than usual.

But we got it done eventually and then, finally, it was Sunday. We stowed our bags into the boot of our car and set off by late morning, by which time, thankfully, the lashings of rains we'd woken up to had almost dwindled to nothing. 

I'd left the decision on what to wear for the journey and our first day until the last moment, then opted for this Finnish made black floral frock, which has been in my wardrobe forever. On Instagram, Mim aptly called its print 1970s does 1930s perfection, and I couldn't agree more.

The orange, half-elasticated belt is another wardrobe staple and as the elastic at the back doesn't dig into my waist, it's ideal for travelling by car. My black and white beaded necklace was a fairly recent charity shop find.

Our journey only took us just over an hour, so it was about 1 pm when we arrived at our B&B, Het Soetewater, where we were welcomed by our host, Veronique, with coffee, cakes and an orchid plant as a present for our wedding anniversary. How nice is that?

We made ourselves at home in our usual room, where I took this selfie, which for once didn't look too bad. Here you can see the orange cardie I wore on top, and the brooch, with its duo of flowers, I pinned to it.

The B&B's breakfast and sitting room turned out to be the perfect background for outfit photos.

This early in the season, we were the only guests, but nevertheless there were fresh flowers for us to enjoy, and Veronique always made sure there were some cakes in case one got peckish.

She also makes her own jam, pots of which are for sale. I'm not much of a jam person myself, but Jos is and he took no less than six pots home!

It was about 3 pm by now, and the weather had improved considerably, even treating us to the odd ray of sunshine. 

At this point, wild horses couldn't have kept us away from Bruges, so we set our satnav for the biggest of the city centre car parks, 't Zand, situated under the eponymous square, the largest in Bruges. We emerged near the impressive contemporary concert hall, which was completed in 2002, when Bruges was the European Capital of Culture.

We strolled into the direction of the beguinage and the famous Minnewater (Lake of Love), passing a shop selling chocolate kisses and a little courtyard of whitewashed cottages, where dried Hydrangea stalks were swaying in a gentle breeze.

Signs of devotion are everywhere, becoming even more plentiful upon nearing the beguinage. 

The shrine to Our Lady of Banneux, virgin of the poor (bottom right), is hidden away in a little chapel in the front garden of one of the beguinage's cottages. 

But before we enter the beguinage itself, let's take a walk along the Minnewater (or Lake of Love), which lies at the heart of the tranquil Minnewater park. 

Legend has it that a young and pretty girl called Minna fell in love with Stromberg, a warrior of a neighbouring tribe. As Minna's father was, rather predictably, against the liaison, Minna ran away into the forest, where she was finally found by Stromberg, but sadly she died in his arms from exhaustion. 

The lake was named in her honour and the bridge by the lake has been considered the bridge of love ever since. 

The Minnewater is also home to the swans which are the city's emblem.

There are two entry gates to the beguinage, and we took the Koepoort (or Cow Gate), which is right next to the Minnewater. 

As you step through the gate into the beguinage courtyard, you suddenly find yourself into another world, reigned by peace and quiet. There are signs asking for silence at regular intervals, but even so, your voice automatically drops to a whisper, the quietness only shattered by your footsteps on the cobbled paths and the clicking of your camera's shutter, which suddenly sounds quite conspicuous.

In Spring, the central green is a mass of daffodils, which is quite a magical sight. Dotted among the grass, one or two clumps of forward little daffs seemed to be confusing the mild Winter weather with Spring, and giving us a little taster of what's to come. 

Leaving the beguinage through the second gate (the top centre photo in the above collage was taken through the gate's grille), we walked towards the town centre, passing the Halve Maan (Half Moon) brewery, which we'd planned to visit in the next days in case of rain, but which remains on our to-do list as I write. 

In spite of this being a Sunday, there were hardly any crowds, so that we were able to photograph Bruges' most iconic and picturesque corners without having to work around the almost constant stream of tourists which seem to throng the city at other times of year.

Snapping the charming little medieval deception of the Bonifacius bridge, which actually dates from 1910, without the hordes of selfie-stick-wielding people, was nothing short of a miracle. 

And whatever the season, the ravishing sight of the water gently lapping the back of  the magnificent St. Jan's Hospitaal (top left) and the old facades lining the Dijver canal with the belfy towering above them, never fails to tug at the heartstrings.

As daylight slowly made way to dusk, we took a deep breath and walked to the Markt (Market Square). But we needn't have worried as even in this epicentre of tourist-land the crowds seemed to be rather thin on the ground, with a long line of empty horse-drawn carriages waiting for weary travellers.

Hunger and thirst got the better of us, but we were dismayed to find that our favourite restaurant lining the square was closed for refurbishment. But never mind, a look at next door's menu enticed us inside, as we both had a craving for witloof in de oven: Belgian endives rolled in ham, covered in a cheesy bechamel sauce and cooked in the oven, usually served with mashed potatoes.

Darkness had descended while we were eating, so we were greeted by a magically lighted square when we emerged from the restaurant. 

We lingered for a while, taking it all in, then walked along the city's main shopping street, mingling among the multilingual groups of people strolling as if on a mild evening in Spring. Hard to believe it was only the beginnig of February.

Soon we were back at the concert hall on the square, now transformed by spotlights enhancing its architctural details.

After having paid for parking, we descended into its catacombs and retrieved our car.

I won't mention that we got a little lost on our way home (our satnav's fault, not ours) but we finally made it back to our B&B in one piece, if with slightly shattered nerves.

I will be back with our next day of adventures soon!

Linking to Patti's Visible Monday at Not Dead Yet Style!