Going to the docks

It was Jos's birthday in the last week of September, and just like I did last year, I'd taken the day off so that we could spend it together.

The day was almost a carbon copy of last year's too, the sun shining just as brightly in a deep blue sky.

Admittedly, this was kind of a busman's holiday for me, as here we were waiting for the tram, which would take us into Antwerp.

I was still making the most of my Summer wardrobe by wearing this short-sleeved black frock with a Peter Pan collar, a row of sky blue buttons and loops and a striking floral and geometric print.

For some reason, this dress only seems to come out of my wardrobe this time of year, just before the big wardrobe changeover, as the last time I wore it was in September 2017. 

Accessorizing is easy when there are so many colours to choose from. For my birds-in-flight brooch and necklace, I took the lead from the blue of the buttons, choosing more vibrant shades for my bracelets in turquoise and red with - again - a Millefiori design. I was tickled pink when I found out that all the way over in Australia, Sasha has exactly the same bracelet!

I had a hairdresser's appointment - which sounds uncannily like last year as well - and while ambling towards the salon, I took in some of the details which normally all but escape me. Would you believe these snaps were all taken in the street where my office is?

Just a couple of doors away from my hairdresser's is an Oxfam shop, which we went into as we were early. We were actually in search of a Winter coat for Jos, but no joy in the men's department: just a small rack of shapeless, tired-looking coats one wouldn't be seen dead in.

But then there was a mannequin wearing this delightful cape. Its label said Chartage by Luc Bex, whom I'd never heard of , but who, according to the almighty Internet, is a Belgian jewellery designer. Couldn't find anything about the cape itself, or even if he actually designed clothes as well. One thing is certain: there was no way I was going to leave this much fabulousness behind!

After Michel, my hairdresser, had worked his magic, it was time for lunch. 

We'd booked a table at the same little restaurant we went to last year. Not only is it very cosy, with all its assorted junk a little reminiscent of Dove Cottage, the food is delicious, and it's quite unpretentious, which is just how we like it. 

Afterwards, we went for a browse in a second hand shop we'd passed earlier. Much to our delight, there was an extensive selection of menswear, including a wide choice of coats. After trying on a gorgeous leather jacket, which sadly was too big, we finally found this sheepskin coat, which fit the bill (and Jos!) perfectly.

Walking towards the River Scheldt, we passed this ornamental, neo-classicist gate, which was constructed between 1859 and 1862, and belongs to St. Paul's Church (Sint Pauluskerk).

The church itself was completed in 1639. Originally, St. Paul’s Church was part of a large Dominican monastery. It was consecrated in 1571 as a replacement for an earlier church. A new Baroque steeple was built after a ravaging fire destroyed the church in 1679.

While the main entrance of the church is around the block, this gate, which for once stood invitingly open, leads to a secluded garden complete with Lourdes grotto, in the shadow of the monastery ruins.

Nearing the river bank, I was struck by the plentiful architectural references to Antwerp's maritime tradition.

Thanks to its location at the upper end of the tidal estuary of the River Scheldt, Antwerp has become what it is today: a metropolis with an international seaport, and the city's fortune has always been closely tied in with that of its port.

We strolled along the river's quays up to 't Eilandje (Little Island) with the impressive MAS Museum, which opened in 2011, as its focal point. 

It's where we ended up last year as well, but now, instead of walking up to the viewing platform on top of the museum, we just walked around the docks surrounding it.

This formerly abandoned dockside district has been turned into an attractive neighbourhood. Its rundown historic warehouses have been refurbished and its grubby cafés frequented by drunken sailors have made room for hip coffee bars.

I love how the museum's undulating glass panes resemble waves, another tribute to Antwerp's relationship with its river.

Just a short walk along the quays from the museum is the world’s largest museum collection of harbour cranes and, right in front of MAS is its real showpiece: the oldest crane in the collection.

This is a ten ton manually operated crane from German manufacturer Stuckenholz, which was purchased by the city of Antwerp in 1884 for handling heavy loads and mounting shore cranes.

The four larger than life sculptures which seem to be climbing on top one of the renovated warehouses (top right) are part of an interactive art installation called the Antwerp Whisperer (de Antwerpse Fluisteraar). The sculpture on top of the roof  whispers general and personal messages that are received by a fifth sculpture, which is positioned below near the dock, but not pictured.

Apparently, you can record your own message for € 1,99 by using a free App. An idea for Jos's next birthday, perhaps?

All too soon, the afternoon was drawing to a close, but before taking the tram home, we stopped for coffee in the museum's café.

And finally, better late than never, I am linking my black frock to Patti's Visible Monday at Not Dead Yet Style!

There's such a lot of world to see

As last Wednesday was Jos's birthday, I'd taken the day off to commiserate with him!

The sun was shining, which would have been enough to get us out of bed, if it weren't for Phoebe, who 'd brought Jos a present: a mangled spider which she deposited at his side of the bed. Very thoughtful of her, don't you think?

So, up we got and after a leisurely breakfast, we headed to the nearby town of Mortsel, where we parked our car and took a tram into Antwerp.

I had a hairdresser's appointment at 12 o'clock, but we were early, and ambled into the direction of the salon, playing at being tourists.

Antwerp's cathedral dominates almost every view and glimpses of it can be caught in the most unexpected of places.

These are just three of Antwerp's elaborate street corner Madonnas, dating from the end of the 17th and beginning of the 18th century. Today, about 160 of them remain, adding greatly to the city's charm.

While Jos was enjoying a cup of coffee, my hairdresser, Michel, who has been looking after my hair for more than twenty years, was working his magic.

It was Michel who pointed us in the direction of a nice little place to eat, d'Aa Toert, in a narrow street running almost parallel with Antwerp's Grote Markt. "Aa Toert" is Antwerp slang for old woman, its literal translation being "old tart" but without the connotations it has in English! Indeed, the place is renowned for its delicious cakes and tarts, which we as yet have to try out.

Stepping into the restaurant feels like entering a junk shop, with shelves full of mismatched china and knick-knacks, framed prints, ornate mirrors and an assortment of table lamps.

The place seemed to be full but when we mentioned Michel's name, we were promptly seated at a little table for two. After pasta (for me) and mushrooms on toast (for Jos), we received a complimentary coffee for Jos's birthday!

Afterwards, we sauntered towards the tram stop and waited for the tram to take us to our final destination of the day.

Our destination, as can be seen on the tram, was called Eilandje, or to give it its full name, Het Eilandje, which translates as "The Little Island".

Het Eilandje dates back to 1550 and is the oldest port site in Antwerp. During the French Regency (1795-1814), Napoleon ordered the excavation of the first two docks, which would turn Het Eilandje into a flourishing port.

In the 20th century, when the port expanded further to the north, the busy port life disappeared and people moved away from the area. For decades, it was a desolate area, a barrier between port and city.

This forgotten corner of Antwerp, with its moody, rundown hangars, has been patiently waiting for a new lease of life along the river, which it has finally been given.

In the last decade there has been a real urban metamorphosis which has turned the once down-at-heel area into an attractive neighbourhood consisting of water, contemporary architecture and culture, as well as a multitude of trendy cafés and restaurants.

There's a hint of nostalgia as well, in the historic warehouses, rusty cranes, sturdy bollards and old bridges and locks.

The jewel in its crown is MAS (Museum aan de Stroom, Dutch for Museum by the River), which was opened in 2011, and which was the aim of our visit.

The largest museum in Antwerp and certainly the most visually striking, MAS is a sight to behold, with its staggered rusty red brick levels, looking like a tower of containers stacked one on top of the other and rising to a height of 60 meters. 

It houses nearly half a million items, only 180,000 being on display, all focusing on the city of Antwerp.

Adorning the façade are 3,185 hand shaped ornaments, a homage to the symbol of the city.

The River Scheldt has been Antwerp's lifeline for many centuries, and water is a key element of MAS, with it rippling glass and watery reflections.

The museum is well worth visiting, even if you are only there for the views!

Escalators, and one final staircase, take you past nine floors to the top, treating you to a wonderful view of the city, which changes constantly as you rise higher, each floor opening up yet more vistas pulled slightly and disconcertingly out of shape by the rippling glass walls.

A breathtaking 360-degree panorama of Antwerp awaits you on the roof terrace: the inner city rooftops and its skyline towers, the River Scheldt snaking away beyond its bend towards the rest of the world.

Antwerp's landmark towers, with the cathedral taking its rightful place in a prominent position, seemed to be joined by an encroaching army of high-rise buildings rising up from the city smog.

We couldn't get enough of the bird's eye view of Antwerp, the city and port a Lilliput world at our feet.

There was time for some posing too, with me framed by the cathedral's towers. The orange leather jacket must be my best buy so far this year, accompanying me on many an outing. Here, I'm wearing one of my favourite skirts with it, in colourful floral Diolen, and a short sleeved black polka dot top with a notched collar. All vintage, from Think Twice.

After this visual treat, we descended to the ground floor again, taking in the building's stunning architectural details. 

We ended our visit in the museum café, where we treated ourselves to a restorative cup of coffee.