Thursday 29 June 2023

Down into the valley and up to the high castle

Although we've been back for a couple of days now, having arrived home tired but happy on Saturday evening, it's only now that I'm ready for my return to blogland and for making a start with my travelogue.

After all, with only two days until my return to the office on Tuesday, there has been the usual whirlwind of unpacking, doing a wash load or two, putting some food into our fridge, taking stock of the garden's triumphs and casualties and generally re-adjusting to daily life at Dove Cottage. Not to mention having extensive cuddling sessions with Bess, who has been claiming our laps whenever we've dared to sit down!

To put your minds at rest, I will already divulge that we had the most fantastic holiday! The weather was just glorious, and the weather gods were kind enough to only send showers our way when we were  back at the cottage at night.

But let's begin at the beginning, and cast our minds back to Saturday the 10th of June, when we got up at the crack of dawn (4 am Belgian time to be exactly) to start our travels.

Arriving at the LeShuttle (their innovative new name replacing the former Le Shuttle - no kidding!) terminal well on time, we had our one and only hiccup of our journey when we tried to check in and the computer screen kept telling us there was an oversized vehicle in our lane. At the push of a button we were connected to a real life assistant who swiftly arranged the check-in for us. Then, after going through customs - where the UK official looked at us disbelievingly when told we were going to Shropshire - and stocking up on croissants and other delicacies at the Flexiplus lounge, we were able to take an earlier train than initially booked.

Before we knew it we were whizzing along a succession of  UK motorways, where traffic wasn't too bad all things considered. It was just after 3 pm when we made our descent into Adstone valley - consisting of the huddle of farm buildings Byre Cottage is part of - on the by now all too familiar narrow, winding and increasingly potholed lane. 




With temperatures expected to reach the low thirties back in Belgium, we were glad of the more reasonable 25°C in Shropshire, even if it had started feeling a bit muggy by now. Sure enough, shortly after our arrival clouds were gathering, thunder could be heard rumbling in the distance and the odd flash of lightning flared up in the sky above the Long Mynd before a brief but refreshing shower spitted raindrops against the cowshed's windows.



What with our early start and long journey, it wasn't all too long before we climbed into the cowshed's four poster, whose pillow and duvet covers were a testimony to the fact that we were staying on a working sheep farm. No need for counting sheep here, which would have been virtually impossible anyway!



The one-hour time difference between Belgium and the UK meant that we were wide awake earlier than we would have liked on Sunday morning. It wasn't even 5 am when, on my way back from the bathroom, a glimpse through the kitchen window made me grab my camera to photograph the magical light of dawn.



We hadn't made any plans for the day other than to drive over to Bishop's Castle, at just under 20 minutes by car the nearest town from the cowshed with a supermarket. Before stocking up on foodstuffs for the next couple of days, we went for a little mooch around the small but delightful market town and the handful of shops which were open on a Sunday.

One of these was Rosie's, a treasure trove of a vintage and antiques shop where I bought this gorgeous brooch last year. Back then, Rosie explained that the silk woven Heliotrope flowers at its heart were part of a range of such flowers given away inside packets of Kensitas Cigarettes in the 1930's. 

Intrigued by Rosie's explanation, I did some googling after I got home and found that there were whole websites devoted to Kensitas Silk Flowers. Secretly, I hoped that one day I would be able to find one or more of these flowers on their original cards ...




When I mentioned the brooch to Rosie, she not only remembered, but told me that, as luck would have it, she'd recently come across a batch of Kensitas Silk Flowers, which she now had for sale. It goes without saying that I didn't hesitate for one single moment and snapped up several of them. Aren't they absolutely delightful? And to think that she normally doesn't even open on a Sunday!




I also selected these two brooches, the first of many which came home with me this year.

To recover from the steep climb up the 1 in 6 gradient High Street, we had cappuccinos and cakes at Yarborough House, which combines a tiny tea shop with a large second hand book and record shop Then we had a browse at The Poetry Pharmacy, a wondrous independent bookshop which found its home in an original Victorian pharmacy (linking cause I love!).



On our way back to the cowshed, we had a stop the car moment in Wentnor, the village closest to our little valley, as I simply had to photograph the magnificent display of fiery Red Hot Pokers (Kniphofia) in front of the Grade II listed church of St Michael and All Angels. 


We had lunch at the cottage, then after a little lie-down we somewhat reluctantly dragged ourselves from the sofa for an afternoon outing, not wanting to admit defeat by already calling it a day.

Although our weather app insisted it was just 23°C, clouds had once again gathered, some of them angry-looking and heralding the brewing of a storm. The air was quite stifling when we made our way down yet another bumpy lane towards the Bog Visitor Centre. Housed in a 150 year old former Victorian school building, it is one of the few remnants of a once bustling mining village in the shadow of the Stiperstones, part of the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and known for its quartzite tors.


It was a quick visit, though, as we were both feeling tired and a bit out of sorts. Time to go back to the cottage to recharge our batteries. But not before showing you my outfit, consisting of my Think Twice denim skirt, a charity shopped blue and yellow zig-zag top and one of my stretchy belts. 

Oh, and that storm eventually and inevitably arrived that night, the rain having cleansed the air by Monday morning.


A veil of mist was still cocooning the hills when we woke up, but soon the sun was playing peek-a-boo with the layer of grey. It was relatively chilly in our windswept valley, which made it hard to believe the weather people got it right in forecasting highs of 26°C.


But never mind the weather: we had things to do and places to go. Well, one place in particular, that is. Just like we did last year, we'd ordered a National Trust Touring Pass before we left so, armed with our confirmation email, we drove to Powys Castle. About half an hour's drive, and just over the border with Wales, this is one of the properties where one can have the actual Touring Pass issued.

It wasn't the first time we visited the stunning Medieval castle rising dramatically above its magnificent terraced gardens - we were here in 2018 and 2019 and after being rudely interrupted by Covid, back in 2022 - but it certainly wasn't a hardship to come here again. 

In spite of the excellent value for money (the pass costs £84 for 2 people for 14 days), not many overseas visitors seem to be aware of it. In fact, the pass was quite a novelty at some of the properties we visited and we were generally treated like royalty. I cannot stress enough how friendly, helpful and knowledgeable the NT staff and volunteers are.



The mercury climbed ever higher as morning progressed towards noon, so we soon took shelter under the arches of the aviary terrace, where shepherds and shepherdesses are dancing on the balustrade.

While Jos was taking a breather away from the relentless glare of the sun, I climbed the steps up to the terrace at the back of the castle offering a magnificent view across the garden. Here Offa (the late 8th Century King Offa of Mercia - top right) and Edgar (the 10th Century West Saxon monarch King Edgar the Peaceful - bottom left) are guarding the Northern entrance. No fly in the ointment, but there is one on poor Edgar's left foot!



Hunger pangs made us return to the castle courtyard, where we were greeted by Colin the peacock who was drawing quite a crowd by fanning out his spectacular tail feathers.


Almost rivalling Colin's feathers were the wondrous cushions, quilts and carpets by internationally renowned fine artist and textile designer Kaffe Fassett, which were exhibited inside the castle.

Photography is not allowed inside, so the photo of the stunning carpet draped on the castle's stairs are courtesy of the National Trust. The exhibition is still running until 3 September, should you be in the area.



After lunch at the on-site café (and yes, Vix, we both had jacket potatoes) and a tour of the castle and exhibition, we sought some shade in the woodland opposite the castle. 

As we sat on a bench near the pond, we took in the sensory delights we had missed for so long. The air was alive with the verdant scents of early Summer and the buzzing of bees as we walked on the woodland path hemmed in by banks of red and pink Rhododendrons.


There's a sudden clearing in the woods about half-way along the path, offering a magical view of the castle and its terraces in all their glory. Even if I must have snapped the castle from this exact vantage point on every previous visit, I couldn't help zooming in with my wonderful new Sony Cybershot. Isn't it just glorious?



I fell head over heels for this colourful zig-zag patterned maxi skirt when I spotted it in a charity shop in the Summer of 2021 and it has definitely become a holiday staple since.

My red and white floral blouse from the Belgian Wow To Go label is charity shopped as well, as are the black and white chevron patterned stretchy belt and the green beaded necklace. The green butterfly brooch, which has blue and pink sisters, was a retail buy from a quirky independent shop in Antwerp.

The hat, which has seen better days, was a flea market find which I upgraded with a hair band last seen as a #Coronahair solution back in 2020.



Back at the cottage that evening, we were treated to a torrential downpour complete with horizontal wind and a volley of hailstones. 

We could only watch in horror as our car was completely exposed to the elements and we breathed sighs of relief as soon the worst was over and our car didn't seem to have suffered any damages.

The weather forecast for the days ahead was for continued sunny and warm weather. Now, what would we be doing next? I'll be back with more adventures in a couple of days!



45 comments:

  1. What a wonderful introduction to your holiday. I didn't know about the Kensitas silk flowers. It seems a strange thing to include in a cigarette packet, but beautiful. The brooches you found are lovely, too.
    The National Trust Touring Pass sounds a real bargain. I wonder why it's not more generally known.
    I look forward to the next instalment! x x

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    1. Thank you Janice! Indeed those silk flowers do seem a strange thing to give away with cigarettes. They are gorgeous, though, and widely collected! xxx

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  2. What a glorious array of photos, Ann! You've seen a lot more of Shropshire than I have and I only live down the road. I can't wait to catch the Kaffe Fassett exhibition at Powis Castle and acquaint ourselves with dear old Colin.
    Your travel wardrobe is glorious and your accommodation is stunning.
    On your first Saturday in the UK I said to Jon, I wonder if Ann & Jos have eaten their first jacket potato yet?!
    I used to collect those Kensitas flowers when i was a little girl. I wonder what on earth happened to mine.
    Can't wait for part 2! xxx

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    1. Wasn't it lovely that dear old Colin fanned his tail feather especially for us? Your comment about the jacket potatoes made me smile. We only ate our first ones at Powis Castle though :-) xxx

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  3. beautiful old england!
    thanx for the pictures..... what a luck to find that silky flowers in the shop - what will you do with them? making your own brooches?
    hugsies! xxxx

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    1. Thank you Beate! I'm not sure what I'll do with the silk flowers yet, I'll probably frame them and then find an empty piece of wall to hang them on :-) xxx

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  4. Glorious photos of Powys Castle. What a truly splendid place and lovely gardens. I must go and visit, maybe next year now.
    Lovely first couple of days.
    I love the cards, just too lovely.
    Looking forward to reading the rest of your holiday adventures.

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    1. Thank you Carole! Powis Castle is well worth a visit, you really must go! xxx

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  5. So lovely to find you back blogging after your trip and what a start to the trip ! You seem to have a knack for finding the best places. Oh and the Kaffe Fasset quilt, just wonderful. I adore him and his work. Whilst working at Charleston Farmhouse a few years ago I had the pleasure of meeting him several times and visiting his London home, a magical place.

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    1. How wonderful you that you had the pleasure of meeting Kaffe Fassett ... oh, and you worked at Charleston Farmhouse? We visited it back in 2004 or 2005! xxx

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  6. What a wonderful holiday you're having so far! Can't wait to see that you two get up to next!
    Your clothes are amazing, as usual...my favorite been the blue denim! Love the blues on you!!
    The peacock must have been gorgeous and the fly? Lolol Too funny...
    Happy weekend!
    hugs
    Donna

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    1. Thank you Donna! I've been told before that blue is my colour ... and I'd never seen a real life peacock fanning out his tail feathers, which was quite spectacular! xxx

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  7. I'm so glad the weather was good for your holiday and that you had a fab time. I've never been to Shropshire and must remedy that soon. Your accommodation looked lovely.

    I don't remember the Kensitas silk flowers at all and my mum used to smoke them; it must ha been before my time. They look lovely and how serendipitous you acquired some more! And even more brooches...

    Loved your outfits especially the zig-zag skirt; a brilliant find.

    Looking forward to next instalment...
    xxx

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    1. Thank you Vronni! The silk flowers date from the 1930s, so definitely before your time! xxx

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  8. the weather looks great and your long skirt and belt combo made your outfit outstanding. The location is so historic and dreamy, it defiitely makes me miss Europe in general and the UK in particular. Thanks for detailed story of your trip, I felt as if I tagged along.

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    1. Thank you so much, and you were very welcome to tag along! xxx

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  9. I am fascinated by the train that ferries you through the tunnel! Being used to ferries to get to the mainland here, it is so cool that you can just drive your car onto it. We can't build underground due to being in an earthquake zone.

    Your adventures are off to a grand start, Ann! That's my kind of vacation: a lovely place to come home to, exploring little villages and historic places. When we eventually make it over to the UK/Europe, this is the type of holiday I want.

    Thank you for all the gorgeous pics - I don't care if you've posted them before, and I just pore over them, taking it all in.

    Amazing that you were able to find those embroidered flower cards! Looking forward to seeing more brooch acquisition, hee hee.

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    1. Thank you Sheila! We've been travelling by Eurotunnel for over 20 years now. So much faster than the ferry! Oh, and there will be many, many brooches coming up :-) xxx

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  10. I love your travelogues! 💕 First, I'm relieved your car survived the storm. So nice to be able to accompany you again. England is so special and I'm glad you bring such beautiful photos. Thanks very much. I'll look at it again in a moment. 😂
    with a huge hug Tina

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    1. Thank you so much Tina! I'm hoping your trip to Italy with your friends went well, and that the weather wasn't too horrible ... xxx

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  11. So glad you are back home safe and sound! It is always hard to come back home after a vacation, because there is so much to catch up on. I hope the adjustment is going well. And hooray that you had such an excellent holiday and the weather was good!

    The pictures you took are so beautiful. I'm glad you were able to see Bishop's Castle and were able to go to vintage stores as well. The brooches you found are beautiful! I can't get over all of the incredible views you were able to see for yourself. Wow! What an incredible experience. And I love that zig zag patterned maxi skirt. It looks great on you!

    the creation of beauty is art.

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    1. Thank you Shannon! I never had as much trouble readjusting to daily life than I had this year. Perhaps I'm ready for retirement ... :-) xxx

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  12. Oh Ann, we are going this Thursday to Rye! Just a few days, but I'm so excited. We are also often asked at Calais where we are heading. And then get the look....lol. and yes, jacket potatoes for us at a castle too! What a glorious country it is. And that zig zag maxi skirt is fabulous!

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    1. I'm so glad you were able to be going to Rye for a few days after all! xxx

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  13. I'm glad the weather was so agreeable, holding off on the storms until you were indoors! Thank goodness the hail didn't damage your car. And you had a fun and stylish time on your adventures - and some great shopping luck as well!

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    1. Thank you Mica! That hailstorm was really scary! xxx

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  14. The castle is fascinating, so good that you were able to return. What luck with the silk flowers.
    -Goody

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    1. Thanks Goody, and I know, what were the chances of finding them? xxx

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  15. You really were lucky with the weather this time. My Grandad had a whole collection of those cigarette cards we had them all framed and shared them between my Mum, Aunt and cousins.
    Powis looks so lovely, I've been wanting to go there for years.

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    1. Those cigarette cards are very collectible, it seems. Aren't they gorgeous? xxx

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  16. Thank you for your first trip report and the beautiful photos... it's a pleasure to see and yes especially the countryside of England, the manor houses and the small villages.
    What joy that you were able to acquire the beautiful silk embroidery.
    And a Kaffe Fassett exhibition is a fabric and color lover's dream.
    I am looking forward to more. I wish you a happy last day of vacation tomorrow.

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    1. Thank you Viola! Weren't we lucky to catch that Kaffe Fassett exhibition, and in one of our favourite places too? xxx

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  17. This already sounds like such a beautiful trip. Thank you for letting us enjoy the delights vicariously.

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  18. So happy to hear you had such a wonderful time. Lovely photos.

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    1. Thank you Hena, I'm glad to hear you love the photos! xxx

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  19. I'm busy catching up after a few days away. Lovely to read about your Shropshire break at last....I've been looking forward to it.
    Your photo of Shropshire's dawn light is stunning. Well done for rubbing the sleep from your eyes and making the effort to capture it!
    Love the sound of the Poetry Pharmacy. Must pay it a visit.
    We have yet to visit Powis Castle which is sheer madness! It's so familiar to me thanks to you and Vix. Happy to hear Colin is still showing off! xxx

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    1. Thank you Claire! Your camera will be working overtime when you visit Powis Castle. Those terraced gardens always take my breath away! xxx

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  20. So lovely to catch up with you after your holidays, lots of beautiful photos!. Powis Castle is stunning!, no wonder you keep on visiting it!. And love your cute skirts, particularly that zigzag one, and fabulously colourful summery outfits!.
    besos

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    1. Thank you Monica! We're already making plans to go back next year! xxx

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  21. Bishops Castle is just a few miles down the road from me and I always pop into Poetry Pharmacy when I'm there :)

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  22. Powis Castle, the place that inspired us to join the National Trust. It looks so beautiful I think we need to go for Jon's birthday! xxx

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    1. Yes, we must, and you'll still be in time to catch the Kaffe Fassett exhibition! xxx

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