Thursday 3 May 2018

Having a nosey in Bruges

On the occasion of Jos's last birthday back in September, he was given a delightful present by his children in the form of vouchers to be spent on hotel or B&B accommodation in Flanders.

With a huge selection of places to choose from, we finally settled on a weekend away to what is probably Belgium's most well-known city, Bruges. With millions of tourists flocking to the city to see its picture postcard perfectness (its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site), it has got its fair share of places to stay, but we opted for a quiet B&B about 15 kilometers away.



We wanted this to be a Spring break, so the last weekend of April seemed perfect. Wasn't it just our luck though that, after the summery weather of the week before, the temperature was about to drop dramatically, to a measly 10°C and less!

I'd fretted about what to pack for weeks, but in the end, choosing three outfits based on what remained of my long-sleeved frocks proved to be easy. Maybe there is something to be said for a capsule wardrobe after all ... Just kidding! I added three options of cardigans and opaques, some things to be layered underneath, and that was it: I don't think I ever travelled this light.

As the weather forecast was so dire, I did have to dig out one of my Winter coats again. And here I was hoping I'd said goodbye to them for at least six months!



Taking just over an hour's drive from Dove Cottage, we arrived at our B&B, Het Soetewater, around 2 pm on Saturday, and were greeted by our host, Veronique, with coffee and cakes, which we had in the breakfast room.

At one end of the room, a sofa and chairs were arranged in front of a fireplace which was lit in the evenings to take the chill away.


Our room was reached through the door behind the stairs, where a strip of light at ground level in the corridor turned on automatically upon entering. 

The door you can see on the left led to our room, which was called Cuberdon. I can see quite a few raised eyebrows there, as I'm sure that most of my non-Belgian readers haven't got a clue what a Cuberdon is.


Well, I'm no longer keeping you in suspense: it's a traditional Belgian sweet. This cone-shaped, purplish candy has the texture of soft licorice, with a darker purple, gooey centre. I have seen the taste described as raspberry, but to me it has a rather indistinct sweet taste. The Flemish colloquial name for the sweets is "neuzekes", meaning small noses.

By now, I guess you are wondering what all this has got to do with our room, but read on, and all will be revealed.


The rooms are situated in the former outbuildings of the farm which used to belong to Veronique's parents, and here and there you can still see some of the original features, such as the traditional tiled floor and the wooden beams in the breakfast room, and the brick wall behind the bed in our room.


The bathroom, with a bath and a shower, and much bigger than Dove Cottage's, was painted in Cuberdon colour, or at least a colour reminiscent of the gooey centre of the sweets. So, there you have your explanation!



The afternoon was getting on by then, so we decided to make a first trip into Bruges. We'd planned to park near the city centre, but the underground car park where we'd parked on a previous visit was full. When then made our way to the station, where there's a huge and reasonably cheap car park, passing several others, also full, along the way. Well, what did we expect? It was a Saturday afternoon after all, and this was Bruges, where it always seems to be teeming with tourists and day-trippers.

We finally found a parking space at the far side of the station from where it was a ten minute walk to the city centre.


Once we reached the city's main shopping streets, the throngs of people were becoming  nearly impassible and the only thing to be done was to let us be swept along in their tide until the main square, the Markt, was reached. 

Pointing my camera upwards, I tried to ignore the crowds. Looking at the artwork on one of the buildings, I'm quite sure it was a mirror image of my face at that point!


It wasn't less crowded on the Markt, but here people dispersed in all directions, some of them making for the horse-drawn carriages, a traditional way to see the splendour of the city. 

Others were admiring the biscuit tin worthy buildings lining the Markt, with the Provincial Palace built in Gothic revival style (bottom left) on one side, or straining their necks to see the the medieval Belfry, which stands 83 metres tall and dominates the square.




In front of the Belfry are two green wooden "frietkoten". "Frietkot" is Flemish colloquial for "frituur", that Belgian institution selling "frites" or Belgian (not French!) fries, as ubiquitous as the British chip shop. These two date from 1897 and the rumours that one is always busier than the other seem to be quite true! 

We were getting quite peckish by then but, rather than trying one of the above, we made our way to one of the restaurants housed in a row of gabled buildings across the square. After a quick look at the menu, we decided on St. Joris, where we had a proper sit-down meal on the - admittedly covered and heated - terrace.


Afterwards, we recrossed the square to investigate the Belfry and the market building, or Hallen, at its base, using the underpass to enter the rectangular courtyard, overlooked by a long line of galleries, which originally served as the town's market.

On the north side of the courtyard, up a flight of stone steps, is the belfry's entrance, where you can climb a narrow staircase of 366 steps to the top of the tower, your efforts rewarded with a undoubtedly breath-taking view. Mercifully, at the time of visiting, it was after closing time, so that I wasn't tempted to put my long-suffering knee through this ordeal.


I did make my way up the curving stone steps to the first floor gallery and, making my way down again, Jos caught this photo of me, showing a glimpse of my petticoat. Naughty!


We returned to the station by way of some quieter back streets, taking the opportunity to pose for outfit photos with the brilliant red doors of Sint-Salvatorskathedraal (Saint Saviour's Cathedral), Bruges’oldest parish church (12th–15th century) as a background.

Unfortunately you can only see part of my blue long-sleeved frock with its multicoloured spots (you can see a full picture here) and my green cardi peeping out from the three-quarter length sleeves of my swing coat. 

The frilly turquoise scarf was a godsend and so were the comfortable boot, which I can definitely say were made for walking. I chose my burgundy cross-body handbag, which wasn't too bulky and allowed me to keep my hands free for taking photographs. Far too many photographs, I might add.


Then it was back to our cosy B&B to rest and make plans for the next day. Note the wearing of the fashionable travelling Phoebe pants!

I hope you'll join me again for our first full day in Bruges in my next post.


34 comments:

  1. I was a bit scared when you mentioned the C word (capsule), I'm glad it was a joke!
    What a thoughtful birthday present that was! I love your B&B, what a gorgeous place (although I'm not sure if I could have coped with those stairs after a Belgian beer or two).
    I've never been to Bruges but all my friends who've been rave about it and I can see why, it's gorgeous. I recognise the bell tower from the film, In Bruges.
    Your spotty dress is just perfect, no chance of Jos losing you in the crowds of tourists in denim and fleece! xxx

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    1. Thankfully, our room was downstairs, as those stairs looked quite daunting, even without a Belgian beer or two! I could never ever do a capsule! xxx

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  2. Bruges looks beautiful, I haven't been but it definitely looks worth a visit.
    The B&B looks very cosy, that was a great present.
    You look dressed perfectly for the trip; a super stylish dress with warm coat and boots, just what's needed for this iffy spring weather. xxx

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    1. Thank you Sally! Confession: we only went to Bruges for the first time back in 2010, and we only live about an hour away. I'm so glad I took some warm clothes ... xxx

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  3. Ha ha! capsule wardrobe ; P

    I've heard so much about this little city I would love to visit it one day. I saw a whole TV series once that was based there.

    Can't wait to see the other photos you took. Shame that there were so many tourists. It makes sightseeing a challenge.

    Suzanne

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    1. The very word scares me to death! Bruges is definitely worth a visit, and so is Antwerp, where I live. I don't mind tourists (after all, I was one myself!) but I don't like whole groups of them. They take up so much space! xxx

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  4. This is the last blog where I would expect to see an upskirt photo ;)
    Bruges sounds fascinating, and I love the look of the B&B.

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    1. I only noticed the upskirt thing later, and it was too good not to use ;-) xxx

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  5. Oh Ann how wonderful. Thank you for this nice trip for the first morningcoffee. Brugge looks so nice. Years ago we spent few days in Gent. It's a nice city, too.
    a very huge hug Tina

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    1. Thank you Tina! Ghent is nice too. I used to have a friend who lived there, but I haven't been there in years! xxx

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  6. Lovely to see Bruges on your blog! We spent a weekend there years ago, and it poured with rain! It is a really beautiful place. Your B&B looks wonderful, as does your outfit XXX

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    1. Thank you Linda! What a shame it was pouring with rain when you visited. We did have a bit of rain too ... xxx

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  7. Oh what a lovely chance to get away! Well done Jos's children. The B&B looks really lovely and cosy, just the sort of place you need to retire to at the end of a hard days sightseeing. I look forward to ssing more of your trip to Bruges. xx

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    1. Thank you Cate, it was indeed the nicest of presents. We are planning to go to the B&B again, not only is it close to Bruges, but only 20 minutes from the seaside! xxx

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  8. Nothing wrong with a capsule ;)
    I like the sound of Cuberdon, almost as much as I like the walls painted in that colour. Your accommodation looks lovely.
    I went to Bruges years ago and loved it, it's very pretty.
    xx

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    1. You, Hazel, are the queen of the capsules, and you do it well. I'm already having problems packing for a holiday ... Glad you loved Bruges! xxx

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  9. I love the traveling Phoebe pants! Like you, we always stay at smallish hotels outside of city - it's much cozier that way. But ours are rarely as sweet as yours, being such an old country! Neuzekes sounds almost the same in Russian - nosiki (little noses). :) The color is beautiful!

    I love your photos, pointed upward and away from the crowds. What to do? Even I've heard of Bruges! Such a magical town!

    A capsul wardrobe is way too restrictive to me (though, that's exactly what most of us had growing up in the USSR - we had teeny tiny amount of stuff), but isn't a vacation wardrobe a capsule wardrobe by nature? I am happy to see yours - colorful and whimsical!!

    Lots of love!

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    1. Imagine neuzekes sounding almost the same in Russian! I'm glad we didn't book accommodation in the city, as it was so crowded. I need my peace and quiet in the evenings ... I did have an enforced capsule when I was growing up, but that all changed when I started working. I actually bought clothes and books when I got my first wages. xxx

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  10. Somewhere else I'd like to visit one day, though the thought of huge crowds puts me off a bit.

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    1. I'm not a big fan of crowds either. Next time, we'll try to go mid week which might be less crowded. Even Oxford in July, when we visited, was less crowded! xxx

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  11. first outfit of your travel capsule (haha!) is very cool - the dress pattern makes me happy!!
    *brügge* is so pretty - i remember older posts about..... very cosy B&B too - want that sweets now......
    hugest hugs! xxxxxx

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    1. You'll have to come and get those sweets, Beate, as "neuzekes" apparently do not travel well, which is why they are not exported. The very word capsule is making me break out in a sweat! xxx

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  12. So even without the xmas markets, you still got swept along in a tide of tourists. Never mind, it is an exceptionally pretty town and I look forward to hearing about day two. Your b&b looks very swish.
    Xxx

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    1. The last time I was in Bruges was on a Friday in October. I don't remember it as particularly crowded, but I think weekends always are. xxx

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  13. Wow! What a beautiful place, Ann! I would so love to vist you and explore Belgium one day! The B&B looks fabulous and so relaxing. I love your Phoebe pants! Ooh, those neuzekes look delicious! I'd love to try them one day! I love your multicoloured spotty dress: it's so pretty. I look forward to hearing more about Bruges. XXX

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    1. Thank you Sasha! I'll gladly be your guide if you ever come over. xxx

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  14. OOoh, your B&B was delightful! I love that it is named after the paint colour!! It seems very comfortable.
    Bruges is such a wonderful place! We had such a happy time there when we stayed- it was a place called Huis Konig!
    Your spotty dress is beautiful!xx

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    1. I had a look at the website of Huis Koning, and it looks lovely! Such a great location as well. Jos actually thinks we walked past it ... xxx

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  15. sorry that you had to come back to Winter coats (all of us had to do!), but comfort is first particularly when you're travelling!
    I love your colorful polka dot dress, and so cute pic of you flashing your petticoat!, mwhaha
    That B&B looks really cozy and elegant!, fabulous!
    Going to read 'second part' of your trip, as it looks really interesting!
    besos

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    1. Thank you Monica! It was with heavy heart that I dug out my Winter coat again, but I'm glad I did. It really was too cold for anything else ... xxx

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  16. I would love to visit Bruges. Some of it looks familiar as I watched and loved the film 'In Bruges'. Your B&B looked fabulous and I think I would like the Cuberdon - I am far too fond of sweets and licorice is oneof my favourites!

    You have taken such wonderful photos. I loved your spotty dress - very cheerful.
    xxxx

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    1. Thank you Veronica! Bruges is certainly worth visiting. I'd send you some Cuberons, but I've heard they do not travel well ... xxx

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  17. I love the Cuberdon! Even the colour is cool.

    I am right with you on the crowds. I hate them, and all those selfie sticks (just be in the moment!).

    This makes me want to go to Bruges!

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    1. Thank you Sheila! The Cuberdon's colour is more delicious than the actual sweet, in my opinion ... xxx

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